easy dumb question
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easy dumb question
ok if i buy a new set of heads like tea stage 3 heads and a cam say fms 14 is this all i need besides install and tune and would this setup run good on the street (weekend driving only)...? the 2 points im tring to get at is if i buy a cam and have to replace all the springs locks retainers lifters ant i eating away alot of the cost of a set of fully assembled heads so might ti not make more since to just save and do them both at once? and question 2 was would that cam and thoose heads work good together or for some reason should i get less ported heads?
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your going to need to upgrade the springs, pushrods, and retainers. don't forget about head gaskets either. arp head bolts are a good idea too. stage 3 heads are really only for bigger cubes. good stage 2 ported heads or AFR's will be good. you might want to search and do some research
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im looking for lots of power dont really care about gas milage or pollution or driveabilty that much this car is gonna be a street car but only for the fun weekend drives so i want it to idle but past that im fine as long as the inconvience warrents the gains...
#4
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Originally Posted by CrazytrainWS6
your going to need to upgrade the springs, pushrods, and retainers. don't forget about head gaskets either. arp head bolts are a good idea too. stage 3 heads are really only for bigger cubes. good stage 2 ported heads or AFR's will be good. you might want to search and do some research
I would also suggest a 90mm TB and intake.
I agree with the above stage 3's might be overkill.
mainly used on big motor's.
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Stage II would be nice with an F14. I talked to Futral today and they just finished two F14 cars. Both were 6spds and one made 418rwhp and the other I think was just shy of 410. The 418 car had an underdrive pully. Both cars had stock heads, long tube headers and custom Futral tunes.
With a set of stage II heads, full bolt ons and an F14 cam you should be in the 430-440rwhp range. So if you're allready running bolt ons like long tubes etc, then a good set of heads will be around $2k (some less, some more) and the cam is on sale right now for $340. A good set of stage II heads should come loaded (springs, retainers, locks and seals) but you'll still need pushrods, gaskets and a good tune. I also bought a set of NGK TR55ix since everything else up top will be new I might as well throw some fresh plugs in.
I'm not sure how much installs run?, the're were a few good posts about that a week or so ago.
And, Brent with TEA said they were working up a group purchase on their stage IIs or 1.5s. Might want to get in on that
With a set of stage II heads, full bolt ons and an F14 cam you should be in the 430-440rwhp range. So if you're allready running bolt ons like long tubes etc, then a good set of heads will be around $2k (some less, some more) and the cam is on sale right now for $340. A good set of stage II heads should come loaded (springs, retainers, locks and seals) but you'll still need pushrods, gaskets and a good tune. I also bought a set of NGK TR55ix since everything else up top will be new I might as well throw some fresh plugs in.
I'm not sure how much installs run?, the're were a few good posts about that a week or so ago.
And, Brent with TEA said they were working up a group purchase on their stage IIs or 1.5s. Might want to get in on that
#9
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Don't get caught up in "Stage" numbers. Stage 3's usaully have the chambers opened up for a big bore motor, which you don't have. TEA has 3 sets of heads that would be up your alley. There Stage 1.5's are on sale right now and are about the best deal going. Then there Stage 2, are the same as above with a larger exaust valve. Then you have the 2.5 LS-6's, which are all out stock bore heads. There 1.5's are only a few cfm behind my 2.5's that I bought. If you don't plan on nitrous, I'd get the 1.5's and use the saved money for the 90mm intake. The 1.5's are some bad *** heads.