Magic Stick 3 or T Rex?
04-02-2005, 03:44 AM
#22
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Dude, the T-Rex is the fastest stock heads cam out there. I wanted to be one of the quickest I'd snag the one that has been proven. T...........Rex............
04-05-2005, 12:45 AM
#23
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I think its not all about the "quickest drag car." There is ALOT more to a drag car than the cam. Getting the fastest "cam only" record is all for bragging rights and for selling cams.
You are better off copying their suspension and drivetrain setup than copying their cam if you are looking for ET.
Dont look ONLY at dyno's either. A dyno wont tell you how it will respond in between shifts.
All im trying to say is, dont fall into the trap of buying a cam simply because its the fastest ET or makes the most power on a dyno.
Buy a cam because it fits your driving style and lasts as long as you want it to. Steeper lobes and rediculious lift are gonna be hell on springs and RPM is gonna be hell on the bottom end. You cant have your cake and eat it too is what im trying to say.
You are better off copying their suspension and drivetrain setup than copying their cam if you are looking for ET.
Dont look ONLY at dyno's either. A dyno wont tell you how it will respond in between shifts.
All im trying to say is, dont fall into the trap of buying a cam simply because its the fastest ET or makes the most power on a dyno.
Buy a cam because it fits your driving style and lasts as long as you want it to. Steeper lobes and rediculious lift are gonna be hell on springs and RPM is gonna be hell on the bottom end. You cant have your cake and eat it too is what im trying to say.
04-05-2005, 02:16 AM
#24
Originally Posted by disco192
I think its not all about the "quickest drag car." There is ALOT more to a drag car than the cam. Getting the fastest "cam only" record is all for bragging rights and for selling cams.
You are better off copying their suspension and drivetrain setup than copying their cam if you are looking for ET.
Dont look ONLY at dyno's either. A dyno wont tell you how it will respond in between shifts.
All im trying to say is, dont fall into the trap of buying a cam simply because its the fastest ET or makes the most power on a dyno.
Buy a cam because it fits your driving style and lasts as long as you want it to. Steeper lobes and rediculious lift are gonna be hell on springs and RPM is gonna be hell on the bottom end. You cant have your cake and eat it too is what im trying to say.
You are better off copying their suspension and drivetrain setup than copying their cam if you are looking for ET.
Dont look ONLY at dyno's either. A dyno wont tell you how it will respond in between shifts.
All im trying to say is, dont fall into the trap of buying a cam simply because its the fastest ET or makes the most power on a dyno.
Buy a cam because it fits your driving style and lasts as long as you want it to. Steeper lobes and rediculious lift are gonna be hell on springs and RPM is gonna be hell on the bottom end. You cant have your cake and eat it too is what im trying to say.
04-05-2005, 01:07 PM
#25
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This is very true, it will be hell on the springs, bearings and everything else that is stock in the motor. But, there will need to be a nice sized cam to get some kind of results. Yes, the your driving style's will be very different from your buddie, so not every cam is the same for every one. And Disco, i know the size cam your running, and even put parts in it the 383!
04-05-2005, 05:32 PM
#26
Originally Posted by TNorman
Dude, the T-Rex is the fastest stock heads cam out there. I wanted to be one of the quickest I'd snag the one that has been proven. T...........Rex............
For the record- the G5X-4 is smaller then the T-Rex on a wider LSA.
I had good luck with the G5X-4 as well.
04-06-2005, 02:51 PM
#27
I totally agree that looking solely at ET will not tell you anything about anyone's cam. It will tell you which car was stripped down the most, had the best traction, found the best weather, etc. All of the cams mentioned will make VERY similar power. It's all about what you want to market the car for. We could start talking about the quickest and fastest LS1 car with an SS rear spoiler, a certain style wheel, or with an Optima battery, but that's not as interesting. 
In all seriousness though, you should look at what is going to work best for your setup, not what worked well for someone with a setup totally different from yours.
Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance
In all seriousness though, you should look at what is going to work best for your setup, not what worked well for someone with a setup totally different from yours.Trevor
Texas Speed & Performance
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04-06-2005, 03:15 PM
#28
Before you go getting that monster cam.... I'd think about that alot more. Unless you are goin for an all out drag setup, ( stripped 3200 or less race weight, etc. etc. ) I'd think about giving something a little smaller a shot first. I originally wanted to go with a monster cam, I was gonna have Eastside grind me a huge cam... but Ken talked me out of it... and I'm happy he did. The HP #'s I made aren't any huge world breaking #'s, but the car really pulls hard right up to 6400 ( shift light goes on there ) and would keep pulling longer if I gave it the chance I think... but on a stock bottom end, I don't wanna push it too bad.
I made 403 hp and 389 tq thru a steel driveshaft and 12 bolt on Eastside's dyno... which is about 10 hp low from what I have heard. Not the 440 HP that some guys have made... but this is also on pump gas, no elec. water pump, stock t-stat.... just the cam, QTP headers, CATTED Y pipe, and a ported TB, lid, stock MAF. There's probably another 10 to 15 hp from the water pump, t stat and MAF that I could get, which would be close to 420, on a dyno that typicially reads low, on pump 93 octane gas. If I were to tune the car for race gas, I'm sure that I'd be able to post up a real impressive #.
I know that I won't have to be changing any valve springs for a good 20K either... if I leave it alone for that long.
Also, depending on what you are looking to do, will determine ALOT what will best suit your needs. Just beacuse a car went 10.xx with cam A or B or C, doesn't mean that is the best thing for your car.
Give Eastside a call, tell them what you are looking to accomplish, and they should be able to set you up with a reasonably priced setup, and it will make good power. If it's a street car that you have, then something like what I have in my car may suit you just fine.
I made 403 hp and 389 tq thru a steel driveshaft and 12 bolt on Eastside's dyno... which is about 10 hp low from what I have heard. Not the 440 HP that some guys have made... but this is also on pump gas, no elec. water pump, stock t-stat.... just the cam, QTP headers, CATTED Y pipe, and a ported TB, lid, stock MAF. There's probably another 10 to 15 hp from the water pump, t stat and MAF that I could get, which would be close to 420, on a dyno that typicially reads low, on pump 93 octane gas. If I were to tune the car for race gas, I'm sure that I'd be able to post up a real impressive #.
I know that I won't have to be changing any valve springs for a good 20K either... if I leave it alone for that long.
Also, depending on what you are looking to do, will determine ALOT what will best suit your needs. Just beacuse a car went 10.xx with cam A or B or C, doesn't mean that is the best thing for your car.
Give Eastside a call, tell them what you are looking to accomplish, and they should be able to set you up with a reasonably priced setup, and it will make good power. If it's a street car that you have, then something like what I have in my car may suit you just fine.
