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Big cam on h/c 346

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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 10:32 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by redline2k
I was told that my pistons with a 2cc valve relief would clear .680 with my heads. I am asking because I see alot of people running t-rex and gx3 or 4 with stock heads, but I rarely see max effort out of a 346 with heads and aftermarket bottom end. This cam would be a custom grind not an of the shelf item. JRP I checked out the guy you were talking about and it looks like he has a 408, but thanks for the help. I don't want to go with a solid roller, but I want the most I can get out of the motor. Assuming the valve events don't cause any problems what would the draw backs be to a hydraulic cam that size on a 347?
ya, at the time of the post he made way back it was a 347 but now i see's he's going witha SR 408.

assuming you have the valvetrain and head flow and ptv clearance i dont see a problem with such a lobe.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
BTW with Nitrous 4.10 gears and this much power your gonna have to shift 5th in the 1/4 unless you shift well past 7000 RPM's, which is a problem you gonna have, and or already do have.
Also once you add the 12 bolt and slicks make sure your driveshaft is straight or that baby is gonna go by by as well.
28" tire + 4.10's = 142 mph at 7000 RPM I would be surprised if a full weight car spraying a 100 shot will go over 142. I am sure the shop that is working on my car is capable. If not it has a loop around it
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jrp
assuming you have the valvetrain and head flow and ptv clearance i dont see a problem with such a lobe.
Cool, I'll let you know how it turns out.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 10:44 PM
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Sorry I was thinking a 26" tall tire as that is what most people use.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
I see you have 5.3 heads which is good for compression so thats a start.

Lets say to get rid of that problem you built a nice forged shortblock. Now you can shift at higher RPM's but will it be worth spinning the motor that high?
It is a forged short block and it already hates me.

Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
Maybe a stage 2.5 LS6 head, or AFR head.
Without having heads that keep flowing real well way way up top spinning the motor that high isn't going to net you the results you are looking for.
I have been assured that my heads will flow fine at the higher lift. If I need bigger heads after this it will have to wait til I win the lottery.

Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
Now you turn to driveability. I know Norris is a good tuner, but tell him I said good luck when he goes to tune it. Your ramp rates are so aggressive and high it is gonna be a pain in the *** to daily drive. (If you are gonna drive it daily)
It's street manners aren't a concern. If they were I would just buy a TR224.

Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
Springs might be a problem. Make sure you buy the best spring you can, b/c there are only a few that will stay together with 650+ lift and reving to 7500 RPM's.
I have the valvetrain parts covered for this I know that won't be a problem.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 10:59 PM
  #26  
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Sweet man, then it looks like your ready to try it out.
By your sig I can't figure out what you already have.
I figured that is you had a forged short it would be listed there with everything else but isn't.
TEA makes some of the best heads, but the 5.3's stop flowing up top a little sooner then the LS6 castings do. We all know the numbers the guys at TEA put out and if they say it will work I would believe them.

Man your probally as close to ready as you can be.
Make sure you keep us updated.
I am sure Norris will tune it fine, it's just going to be a pain to drive.
One question though, if your going all out race then why aren't you changing to a Auto? More consistant and faster once you get to the point your at.
I know driving the 6 speed is fun, but for the fastest setup a Turbo 400 would be a better option.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
Man your probally as close to ready as you can be.
Make sure you keep us updated.
I am sure Norris will tune it fine, it's just going to be a pain to drive.
One question though, if your going all out race then why aren't you changing to a Auto? More consistant and faster once you get to the point your at.
I know driving the 6 speed is fun, but for the fastest setup a Turbo 400 would be a better option.
If I listed everything my sig would be 3 pages long. I hadn't planned on doing this soon but the planets have aligned just right allowing me to get the cam and valvetrain parts at the right price. I just rebuilt the 6spd with all of the d&d goodies and a viper output shaft. I am sure the car will end up with a th400 just not right away. I race it for fun anyway so if it isn't consistant it isn't the end of the world.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 12:51 AM
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I'll be running a big-lift cam with a set of 5.3's. My project starts this August after I get settled in my new house.

BTW, lift doesn't change how high you have to spin the motor. Duration, ICL, and LSA all play into that. I don't think you're giving very good advice.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 01:12 AM
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BTW, lift doesn't change how high you have to spin the motor. Duration, ICL, and LSA all play into that. I don't think you're giving very good advice.


I am not saying the lift is what does it. The question was a cam in the 240-250 duration and 650+ lift.
I am taking both aspects he asked for. If you dont think he is gonna make peak power high with a cam that large your crazy.
If you think I am wrong why dont you compair a 224 cam only car to a T rex Cam only car.
I bet the T rex with the larger duration and lift will make peak power higher in the RPM band, and the 224 cam will make power earlier then the T rex.
I am defentially not all about lift numbers.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 01:15 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by redline2k
If I listed everything my sig would be 3 pages long. I hadn't planned on doing this soon but the planets have aligned just right allowing me to get the cam and valvetrain parts at the right price. I just rebuilt the 6spd with all of the d&d goodies and a viper output shaft. I am sure the car will end up with a th400 just not right away. I race it for fun anyway so if it isn't consistant it isn't the end of the world.

Yeah I understand. You will have some good fun shifting your *** off in that car with that setup.
126MPH is already damn decent.
I love the T-400 setup's. I beat the **** out of mine and it never brakes. The trans brake is always nice.
I only part that sucks is driving around town.
BTW my cam is a 242/246 598/602.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
With the lift being that high your going to need to shift high.
I just misunderstood you, then.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 01:34 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
With the lift being that high your going to need to shift high.


I just misunderstood you, then.


Sorry, with a cam of that size your going to need to shift high would be a much better way to say what I ment.

I guess if you did some crazy numbers with the ICL and LSA you could design a cam that had large duration and lift and make power down low. Now that would be awsome.
How about a 251/255 660/663 on a 104LSA.
Now that would be one nasty sounding mother, and forget about tuning it.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 06:31 AM
  #33  
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Nah, wouldn't be impossible to tune, just remove your MAF. Might even idle ok in SD. I have no idea why you'd want that kind of duration for a low-rom peak though.

He's got what sounds like a race motor, of course he wants to spin it high. Better for scooting down the track (taking advantage of gearing)

Last edited by CamTom12; Apr 8, 2005 at 07:45 AM.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 11:05 AM
  #34  
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Ok I am trying to decide on either a:

240 246 .635 .635
242 248 .635 .635

Either on a 110 or a 112 center. I will be spraying but never above a 200 shot.
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