Would this cam work well on a car with stock exhaust manifolds or shorty headers? I can get this cam for a good deal, and was wondering if a custom grind would benefit my car all that much more, or should I just get this cam. Will I be fine with this cam and no longtubes?

 

If you are going to run a stock or near stock exhaust stay away from big cams. Also, stay with an exhaust bias cam. I think the Comp 216/220 would be a great cam for your set up. Good luck!

 

Why? The factory stock cam is not exhaust bias. Just curious.

 

Of course they are.
Exhaust Bias= Traditional split

 

My bad. I assumed exhaust bias meant less duration on exhaust lobe.

 

The Comp 216/220 is a great little cam and it's always been one of my favorites of their manufacture.

 

Thanks for the help. I think my decision has been made. I can get the comp xr269 for a great price, and it doesn't sound like spending money on a custom would really be worth the $$. Has anyone with a setup like mine gone with custom and seen better #'s than this cam produces?

 

i have this cam, and with just longtubes, and ORP and a tune i made 351/352...not bad imo....i have no other boltons except lid

 

Well I went ahead and bought the 216 220 cam. Now I just need some supporting parts, then I will put it in.

QUOTE: I have this cam, and with just longtubes, and ORP and a tune i made 351/352...not bad imo....i have no other boltons except lid.

Diamond 01ss...did you install the cam with the 4 degrees advance, or did you retard it? I'm thinking of having it retarded 4 degrees. I was told this would be best. Also, did you drive it at all without a tune? I will be getting it tuned, but was wondering how it would drive if I didn't get it tuned right away.

 

I have the same Cam , and I picked up 3 MPH at the track. My dyno numbers are 353 HP/ 375 Torque. You will need some kind of a tune. I had my car tune on LS1 edit.

 

Mine drove fine after the cam install, but it's an even split 220. The only problem I had was idling ... kept dying if I didn't keep my foot on the accelerator. After tuning, I only gained about 3 HP 3TQ . But, when I installed my ported TB, LS6 intake, MAC's and ORY all in the same week, well, it lost big HP and dropped from 335 HP to 317 HP ... once I got it tuned and leaned out, it puts down what's in my sig.

If you're paying $400-$500 for a good performance shop tune, I'd wait to make sure you don't change your mind about more exhaust/intake mods ... unless you have plenty of money OR unless you know someone who will tune it cheap who has a good reputation as a tuner. Of course a tune will make it faster and stronger. But, my point here is this: ... have known several folks who did the same thing you're doing and then decided they wanted more power. Though, your 2nd tune should cost you normally about half as much as your first one with the same performance shop.

Just make sure that stock manifolds or shorty's and exhaust ABSOLUTELY are what you want as your goal. I went with aftermarket shorty's because mine's a '99 and the stock manifolds don't flow very well as compared to later model LS1's. I ended up buying MAC's and doing headers twice ... depends on what your goals are and what your EPA laws are.

I KNEW I would be happy with my shorty setup, but, it didn't take long to realize I wanted more. Of course, with our cars, many of us always want more!!!!

If you're sure you want to keep your stock exhaust/shorty's, go for the tune and be happy. Good luck on whatever you decide. Just my .02 cents ... trying to help.

 

I have this cam and some heads on the shelves waiting to be put in. Got working on some house projects, major. Anyway I was also wondering about the +4 advance. My understanding is its for the timing chain slop. Should put a new one on anyway and there will be no slop. Also the computer will give it all the advance it can handle anyway. (in most cases) My other thought is the more you make the computer adjust for the more problems your asking for. I got this cam for a daily driver when the weather is nice. Could be a year around car in the future. I would give up a few hp for a better driving or less picky car. Anyone????

 

i have to look at the sheet to see about the timing....i believe it was +4. As far as tuning goes, the car surged slightly at start up. After it warmed up it was totally fine. When i say slightly,i mean very slightly. Your drivability will not be effected at all without a tune. Hope this helps

 

NocturnalSS, what else is done to your car???i noticed that you made 375 tq. I only made 352 but i think its good for just a small cam and longtubes.

 

Quote: I have this cam and some heads on the shelves waiting to be put in. Got working on some house projects, major. Anyway I was also wondering about the +4 advance. My understanding is its for the timing chain slop. Should put a new one on anyway and there will be no slop. Also the computer will give it all the advance it can handle anyway.

This doesn't have anything to do with chain slop. When you speak of the computer giving advance, I think you are referring to ignition advance and not advancing the cam. Installing the cam 4 degrees advanced vs. straight up, will(for lack of better words)make everything happen sooner, creating an earlier and lower power peak. With the cam installed without any advance, you will make more peak power, although at a higher rpm.

Basically, I was wondering how taking away the advance and raising the peak power will effect the lower end of the power band. I bought this cam to put in my daily driver and don't want to effect the low and mid range power too much, but would also like to make good peak power. Sounds like this cam has worked out well for you guys, and I can't wait to put mine in I'm just pissed that I live in california and can't get longtubes I know...I know, I could, I just don't want to deal with it.

 

I have a 220/224 .563 on a 114+4. My car pulls MUCH harder up top! It feels softer below 2,000 rpm, but it's worth it. If I had to do it again I might go a bit bigger like a 228 or something, but I do LOVE this cam. Hope this helps...

 

Advance is advance whether from the cam (+4), other bolton’s, or ignition. The ignition has a chart(s) to use depending on input from the sensors. The cam is just adding +4 to what the ignition is sending. The problem becomes when the sensors tell the ignition there is a problem and run off the lower chart or retard more than your +4 cam both are a net loss.

Other common things I question along this line is running really cold and removing the EGR.

This cam may not be the biggest but has a flat, low torque curve. Best for drag racing naaaa but a good upgrade for smoking tires or scaring passengers yes.

 

Cam timing advance or retard changes valve events. Ignition timing advance or retard changes spark events. Valve events and spark events are completely different things. One doesn't affect the other. Once you set a cam timing event, it stays set. Spark events on the other hand is always changing depending on rpm & engine load.

 

Those are good times for those mods nuzee. Are you still runnin the stock manifolds? Did you dyno your car? Did you put your cam in with 4 degrees advance?

 

Yup, still running stock manifolds>cats>SLP Y>cutout>flowmaster. I never dyno'd. I use trap speeds to measure performance gains.

I installed the cam 2 degrees retarded. That gave me 112 intake centerline with a 112 lobe separation angle. In other words "straight-up". Even retarded, the cam still gave a noticeable torque increase from right off idle. Trap speed increase by ~1mph.

Then I added the 1.85 rockers over both intake & exhaust valves and saw a solid 2 mph gain in my 1/4 trap. I went to the track last weekend and ran 12.6s@109-110 with 1.88-1.92 sixties. I was expecting 12.5s but for some reason my SES light came on during the first burnout and the car felt a little less peppy for the rest of the night. After I get the misfire figured out I'm hoping to hit 12.5s.