Well, started tearing the motor apart today
Didn't get too far today, all I did was pull the radiator and unbolt the driver's side header, pull the spark plugwires/plugs, and that's about it (had a long day) I would have tried to get the headers and powersteering pump off so I could pull the head, but just didn't get around to it, now I need to get a pully puller so I can get this damn power steering pump off. Later guys
Originally Posted by HavATampa
No need to pull the ps pulley off, just unbolt the whole bracket instead.
Thanks for the tips guys, I was getting so pissed at those stupid bolts last night. I just packed everything up and went to bed before I broke something getting pissed off. I was thinking about just pulling the lines off of the powersteering pump and since it looks like the whole bracket is bolted to the head, it should come off with the head right?
Yep, the whole bracket comes off the head without disconnecting the lines or the pulley. It's not as bad as it seems. LS1howto is back up again, better get on and print the instructions while you can.
Walking away from it is the best thing to do. Beats stripping threads or breaking parts.
Walking away from it is the best thing to do. Beats stripping threads or breaking parts. Not tryin' to steal the thread, just wondering if people ever have problems with breaking head bolts trying to remove them.
I know some people have had problems breaking head bolt when torquing them. Thinking of trying this myself. Scary topic!!!
Good luck Guys.... Hope ya don't need it.
I know some people have had problems breaking head bolt when torquing them. Thinking of trying this myself. Scary topic!!!
Good luck Guys.... Hope ya don't need it.
Originally Posted by ashade98
Not tryin' to steal the thread, just wondering if people ever have problems with breaking head bolts trying to remove them.
I know some people have had problems breaking head bolt when torquing them. Thinking of trying this myself. Scary topic!!!
Good luck Guys.... Hope ya don't need it.
I know some people have had problems breaking head bolt when torquing them. Thinking of trying this myself. Scary topic!!!
Good luck Guys.... Hope ya don't need it.
I've pulled the head off of my cavalier before and I didn't have any trouble at all getting the bolts to break loose and take them out, I'm not sure about ls1's though, this is my first time getting in to one of these motors. Maybe someone else can chime in?
Never had a problem breaking a head bolt on install or removal.
Rectifier: take the PS pump off before you remove the head. If you unbolt and remove the alternator it's MUCH easier to get tot he PS pump bolts. The alternator has 3 15mm front bolts and one 15mm side(drivers side) bolt. It also has a one wire plug-in on top(be careful the wire is fragile) and one larger wire held on the lower back of the alt. with a 13mm nut. To loosen and remove the PS pump bolt that is up high and tucked in behind the pump, just slip an open end 15mm wrench in there and as the bolt starts coming out just pull out on the PS pump to keep plenty of room to turn your wrench. Of course this means you'll have to remove the other two PS bolts first.
When reassembling, put the PS pump back on first and then the alternator.
Rectifier: take the PS pump off before you remove the head. If you unbolt and remove the alternator it's MUCH easier to get tot he PS pump bolts. The alternator has 3 15mm front bolts and one 15mm side(drivers side) bolt. It also has a one wire plug-in on top(be careful the wire is fragile) and one larger wire held on the lower back of the alt. with a 13mm nut. To loosen and remove the PS pump bolt that is up high and tucked in behind the pump, just slip an open end 15mm wrench in there and as the bolt starts coming out just pull out on the PS pump to keep plenty of room to turn your wrench. Of course this means you'll have to remove the other two PS bolts first.
When reassembling, put the PS pump back on first and then the alternator.
I pulled the waterpump, heads, etc. off tonight, I started at about 7:30 and finished up at around 12:00 (with a few breaks and a run to wal mart to get a sawzall blade). I hated having to take my headers back off, that was the only real pain in the ***. I didn't like the grounds that were located on the back of the driver's side head either. Oh well, I got the heads off, the lifters were all in good shape and I didn't hurt anything else, just that one pushrod. I have more pictures up in the link on the first page also guys. It's bed time, later!
Just my opinion, but go with the ARP head studs instead of the stock head bolts when you put the heads back on. The cost is about the same as 2 sets of stock bolts. Plus, if you ever pull the heads again:
1. They are easier to get off.
2. You don't have to worry about cleaning the bolt holes.
3. You don't have to buy new head bolts.
4. They are easier to get on.
Just some experience from someone who has pulled the heads about 6 times!
1. They are easier to get off.
2. You don't have to worry about cleaning the bolt holes.
3. You don't have to buy new head bolts.
4. They are easier to get on.
Just some experience from someone who has pulled the heads about 6 times!
Originally Posted by Byter
Just my opinion, but go with the ARP head studs instead of the stock head bolts when you put the heads back on. The cost is about the same as 2 sets of stock bolts. Plus, if you ever pull the heads again:
1. They are easier to get off.
2. You don't have to worry about cleaning the bolt holes.
3. You don't have to buy new head bolts.
4. They are easier to get on.
Just some experience from someone who has pulled the heads about 6 times!
1. They are easier to get off.
2. You don't have to worry about cleaning the bolt holes.
3. You don't have to buy new head bolts.
4. They are easier to get on.
Just some experience from someone who has pulled the heads about 6 times!
I had definitely planned on getting all ARP stuff when I got to put the car back together. Thanks for the tip though.








