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LS2 based 408 or Iron Block 408 ???

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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 01:08 PM
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Default LS2 based 408 or Iron Block 408 ???

Inputs??? I know that the knock sensors work "in theory" if you extend the factory LS1 knock sensors... but have they been proven???
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 01:36 PM
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i think the ls2 will get you a 402...

but if your asking for preferences.....it all depends on wat you will be throwing at it....

I would get the iron just for a little piece of mind and the extra, though minimal, cubes.

Im not sure on the knock sensors....there tons of 402 ls2 here...check the dyno section and post a question in one of those threads of just contact on of the shops directly.
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by obZidian
i think the ls2 will get you a 402...

but if your asking for preferences.....it all depends on wat you will be throwing at it....

I would get the iron just for a little piece of mind and the extra, though minimal, cubes.

Im not sure on the knock sensors....there tons of 402 ls2 here...check the dyno section and post a question in one of those threads of just contact on of the shops directly.
I just read that the LS1 knock sensors can be put into the LS2 block on the passanger side with a little work, but they do work.
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 03:45 PM
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If your funds allows the aluminum block id go with that.
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by stang killer
If your funds allows the aluminum block id go with that.
I dunno.. the knock sensors in the side of the motor instead of in the valley still kind of concerns me. I dunno.
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 05:44 PM
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there's alot of cars out there running knock sensors on the sides of the block
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Old Jul 10, 2005 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Procircuit155
there's alot of cars out there running knock sensors on the sides of the block
eh I just have a really bad habit of being overly paranoid when it comes to large $$$ mods to my car. I want to buy the right stuff that will work for a long time.
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Old Jul 11, 2005 | 01:01 PM
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You really do not need a 402/408. Get a built aluminum block 347 or at most a 383. That will make more power than you can handle Eric. And you told me when you bought this car that you didn't want to do anything "major" to the engine . Not a strip car but maybe twice a year? You want something that will be reliable on the street for several years? The 408 is really a race motor. You would need a huge cam and killer heads to use the extra cubes. Fuel economy would SUCK! I just think a 347 or 383 would be a much better street motor for you.
Fix the transmission.
Buy a rearend.
Get some drag radials .
Then see what you need.
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Old Jul 11, 2005 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 1CAMWNDR
Fix the transmission.
Buy a rearend.
Get some drag radials.
Then see what you need.
Like I said.... that will happen first. But if I the 402/408 (no core charge) is less than $1K more than a built 347... why not just get the big stuff.

BTW... I change my mind a lot... haven't you learned that in the past 28 yrs? HAHAHA!!!!

How'd you guys do with the little thunder storm this weekend?
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Old Jul 11, 2005 | 04:12 PM
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My N/a 427 gets 31 mpg. on the highway at 80 mph and will be putting down close to 600 rwhp on the next tune.
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Old Jul 11, 2005 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 1CAMWNDR
You really do not need a 402/408. Get a built aluminum block 347 or at most a 383. That will make more power than you can handle Eric. And you told me when you bought this car that you didn't want to do anything "major" to the engine . Not a strip car but maybe twice a year? You want something that will be reliable on the street for several years? The 408 is really a race motor. You would need a huge cam and killer heads to use the extra cubes. Fuel economy would SUCK! I just think a 347 or 383 would be a much better street motor for you.
Fix the transmission.
Buy a rearend.
Get some drag radials .
Then see what you need.
The Iron Block 402/408 is almost the same price (if you consider core charges) as the 382/383.
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Old Jul 11, 2005 | 04:27 PM
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Why would you want iron which weighs 100lbs. more than the LS2 block? Unless you're really into big nitrous or boost- WHY?
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Old Jul 11, 2005 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by FCar2000TA
How'd you guys do with the little thunder storm this weekend?
The little storm didn't do too much here. I feel for the folks in Pensacola again.
If you think you can handle the big motor, knock yourself out. You might luck out like BUYAMERICAN did and have a half decent street motor that gets good miledge.

This is really just a ploy by me to keep you slower than me .
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 1CAMWNDR
This is really just a ploy by me to keep you slower than me .
HAHAHAHA!!!!!! where's the 1up sound from Super Mario Bros when you need it.
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Old Jul 12, 2005 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by FIREHAWK#608
Why would you want iron which weighs 100lbs. more than the LS2 block? Unless you're really into big nitrous or boost- WHY?
I'm worried about the knock sensor stuff... placement, computer reading correctly... etc
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 03:33 AM
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i would go the iron 408 route. but then again... i am addicted to nitrous and haven't dealt too much with the ls2's. i have heard of fixing the knock sensor problems and things working with the conversion... but i have seen too many nasty iron 408's to look else where.

i take that back... i just read your sig. i would look into a rear end and finishing out a good suspension. i went the power route first and hated not having the suspension and durability to handle it. but then again... it was fun grenading the 10 bolt!
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by WOT
i would go the iron 408 route. but then again... i am addicted to nitrous and haven't dealt too much with the ls2's. i have heard of fixing the knock sensor problems and things working with the conversion... but i have seen too many nasty iron 408's to look else where.

i take that back... i just read your sig. i would look into a rear end and finishing out a good suspension. i went the power route first and hated not having the suspension and durability to handle it. but then again... it was fun grenading the 10 bolt!
All I have left for the suspenssion is shocks and springs (BMR torque arm relocator if that counts as suspenssion).

I will be getting a rearend before the motor... Basically...

Stage I - (August)
New Clutch (probably Ram)
Rebuild Tranny to handle 600 ft/lbs of torque

StageII - (September)
12 bolt or 9" rearend

StageIII -(October)
motor

Maybe between now and October, the LS2's will be proven to work perfectly with LS1 knock sensors.
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Old Jul 13, 2005 | 09:04 AM
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We just did our first in house LS2 conversion, and the LS1 knock sensors work no problem.
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