LS1 Mod Help
#1
Staging Lane
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: FortWorth,Tx
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LS1 Mod Help
Ok i got a 2000 silver TA with 40,000 miles. Its bone stock right now besides the stock exhaust. I have 2,500 to put on some mods what should i go with first? i was going to get a SLP lid and full exhaust but i need some help on what kind of headers. And im wanting to get a stall and cam. I was going to go with a Yank 3800 and as for the cam i have no clue. ive heard its better to not get a cam kit and that just find a cam and get the pushrods and springs seperate. whats yalls opinions on it all. i want a big cam that will create the best horsepower but still drivable on the road without dieing at stop lights.
#2
11 Second Club
Don't worry about a cam yet. By the time you figure out and get the bolt-ons you should have had time to learn more about cams.
Be sure to read this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139142
I'd get coated pacesetters to save as much money as possible and match it to etiher true duals (like TSP rumbler X) or an ORY and magnaflow/hooker, or catted Y-pipe with borlamouth. Just get full exhaust with longtubes and you'll be good on that end. Then a lid, of course, and an LS6 intake manifold.
A converter is next. Converter, transgo shift kit, B&M 24k transmission cooler and trans temp gauge required. I also suggest subframe connectors, "basic tune" and drag radials at this time.
Once you have all that, make a decision on which cam you will get.
As for the $2,500 you have to spend ATM, you should be able to cover most of that. Full exhaust can easily be done for $800-$1000 (self install, it's not hard). I had a sponsor (LS1 speed) install my converter and related parts and it cost me $1,380 out the door (all parts, fluids and labor) for a converter, shift kit, cooler, temp gauge, +2 quart finned transmission pan and subframe connectors.
Be sure to read this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139142
I'd get coated pacesetters to save as much money as possible and match it to etiher true duals (like TSP rumbler X) or an ORY and magnaflow/hooker, or catted Y-pipe with borlamouth. Just get full exhaust with longtubes and you'll be good on that end. Then a lid, of course, and an LS6 intake manifold.
A converter is next. Converter, transgo shift kit, B&M 24k transmission cooler and trans temp gauge required. I also suggest subframe connectors, "basic tune" and drag radials at this time.
Once you have all that, make a decision on which cam you will get.
As for the $2,500 you have to spend ATM, you should be able to cover most of that. Full exhaust can easily be done for $800-$1000 (self install, it's not hard). I had a sponsor (LS1 speed) install my converter and related parts and it cost me $1,380 out the door (all parts, fluids and labor) for a converter, shift kit, cooler, temp gauge, +2 quart finned transmission pan and subframe connectors.
Last edited by blkZ28spt; 07-17-2005 at 11:20 PM.
#3
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Herndon, VA
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If you want to see what to expect from a starting point of just bolt-ons, check out my signature. I got a pretty big boost out of the SLP Long Tubes, but they're a bitch to install and they hang way down, so if you're going for a lowered look, pick another set of LTs. I love mine though. 1000 miles and they look brand new, and it's cooler under the hood than with the stock exhaust and heat shields. Once the car is breathing: Headers & Cat Back, plus Cold Aid induction and High Flow Air lid, you can get a real boost out of a tuner. I picked up almost 30 rwhp out of my Predator. You'll want to be able to set your fans lower too when you get the 160* thermostat. You also can take better advantage of any new cam and heads. I'm looking at the FAST 90/90 set up now for my final bolt-on before a new cam. Heads will have to wait a while, but the price on the Patriot LS6 Stage II package is making it hard to keep the plastic in my pocket... If you want to listen to a bunch of different mods, check out ls1sounds.com.