Guys, I'm planning to have a local shop do heads & cam for me, but in going thru the parts list on the estimate, I notice they do not have headbolt washers listed. When I asked, they said "LS1's don't use headbolt washers".

I thought all aluminum heads need headbolt washers. Does the LS1 come from GM without washers? Aren't they a good idea??

Thanks!

 

No washers, they are stretch to yield bolts.

 

The stock bolts don't use washers, but the aftermarket ARP bolts do. The washers come with the bolts, so they would be included in the price. It just depends on which ones they are using.

 

I'd always heard you should use washers on aluminum to avoid galling and get a more accurate torque reading. Also the guy I spoke to at AFR said I should use washers.

The bolts these guys want to use are FelPro part# FELES72173. Kind of pricey at $50/set, but I don't mind paying for quality in this area.

Do you know if these Fel Pro bolts require washers?

Are the ARPs stretch to yield or traditional reusable type bolts?

Which bolts do you think are best, ARP, Fel Pro or GM?

Thanks!

 

The Felpro's are gunna be GM replacement parts, so I would assume they are the same TTY bolt with a similar tinsil rating. The ARP's are better bolts and use a conventinal TQ number. They will cost more, but they are re-usable if you ever remove the heads again. I would say get the ARP's so you don't have to mess with TTY, but thats just me.

 

Thanks for the info.

Kinda puts me in the dilemma of deciding whether to use headbolt washers with FelPro(GM style) TTY fasteners to satisfy the recommendation of AFR to use headbolt washers.

Any downside to using washers with GM headbolts??

I'm kinda reluctant to force the guys doing my head install to use ARP bolts with a different torque procedure than they're used to and risk them forgetting and torquing them wrong.

 

It has to do with the TTY on stockers. No washers should be used with the stock ones. If you want washers use ARP's.

 

Got it.

Thanks!