which route for A4
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which route for A4 sup fellas, hey i was wondering what would be the best head and cam route to go for a fully bolt on A4. its a daily driver street. no track, nor slicks just fun on the street. i do plan on spraying 100 shot. full bolt ons, with maybe a vig. 3200 stall. im debating between tsp 225/225 or futrals 228/228. or a custom 228/232 all on a 114 for sure. which should i choose. also for heads i know for a fact afr 205 would be best. pretty pricey. hows stage 2 ls1 heads or hpe stage 3 5.3 heads?
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From: NE PA
Originally Posted by TXZ28LS1
sup fellas, hey i was wondering what would be the best head and cam route to go for a fully bolt on A4. its a daily driver street. no track, nor slicks just fun on the street. i do plan on spraying 100 shot. full bolt ons, with maybe a vig. 3200 stall. im debating between tsp 225/225 or futrals 228/228. or a custom 228/232 all on a 114 for sure. which should i choose. also for heads i know for a fact afr 205 would be best. pretty pricey. hows stage 2 ls1 heads or hpe stage 3 5.3 heads?
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TECH Senior Member
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thanks for the only reply xtrooper. much appreciated. i was hoping to get lots of replies. thats what i was wondering was, do you only need to run on a 114 for an auto. ive seen a guy run a small g5 on a 112. ill peep out rapid motorsports. thanks man.
The AFR 205 & 224/228 combo works well . You'll make lots of power and it is easy to tune for nice street manners. The extra 10 or so HP from a bigger cam will not seem like much compared with hitting the button on the spray.
If you want more cam, the next step up is to consider a 228/228 112 cam. Most tuners can make it pretty streetable, and you may find that this much power is all you need if you are staying on street tires, and you can skip the spray. Heads/cam/headers/converter make a HUGE difference in performance.
While there is no official definition, most Stage 3 heads are not for stock cubes.
If you want more cam, the next step up is to consider a 228/228 112 cam. Most tuners can make it pretty streetable, and you may find that this much power is all you need if you are staying on street tires, and you can skip the spray. Heads/cam/headers/converter make a HUGE difference in performance.
While there is no official definition, most Stage 3 heads are not for stock cubes.
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If you like futral's cams look at the F13. Properly tuned it should driver wonderfully on the street.
You would/will be amazed what a cam/stall does to an LS1.
For strictly street I'm with Ragtop, all that plus nitrous is a LOT of power on the street. You will absolutely want to run drag radials as soon as you put a converter in.
When looking at cams that will work well in an auto don't just look at whether the LSA is 112, 114, etc. Look at overlap. LSA is only one factor in determing overlap. Take the duration from any measure point, wehter it be seat to seat, advertised, .05....and apply this formula.
[ (intake duration + exhaust duration) / 4] - LSA, and finally multiply by two.
Overlap is what will determine the idle quality. For reference I daily drive my MS3 with 13.5* of overlap daily and it is not a problem AT ALL. A 224 on a 112 has 0* of overlap. A T-rex has about 25.
(all measured at .050" lift)
You would/will be amazed what a cam/stall does to an LS1.
For strictly street I'm with Ragtop, all that plus nitrous is a LOT of power on the street. You will absolutely want to run drag radials as soon as you put a converter in.When looking at cams that will work well in an auto don't just look at whether the LSA is 112, 114, etc. Look at overlap. LSA is only one factor in determing overlap. Take the duration from any measure point, wehter it be seat to seat, advertised, .05....and apply this formula.
[ (intake duration + exhaust duration) / 4] - LSA, and finally multiply by two.
Overlap is what will determine the idle quality. For reference I daily drive my MS3 with 13.5* of overlap daily and it is not a problem AT ALL. A 224 on a 112 has 0* of overlap. A T-rex has about 25.
(all measured at .050" lift) 
