Would this work?
Would this work? I've been wondering this for a while now to see if you can do it or not and thought I might get your guys input. Apparently, the most time consuming part of a head swap is the cleaning process and getting all the coolant out of the bolt holes. What if you plan on installing a set of ARP head studs with the new heads? Can't you just unbolt one head bolt at a time, then replace it with just the stud, then go on to the next? Doing this with the head still bolted down would not allow the coolant to seep into the bolt holes and save the time it would take to clean out the holes. Then, you can just slip the new heads on after scraping the gasket material off the block. Is my logic correct, or am I missing something? 
Or you could remove the block plug by the starter and the one behind the alternator and let all the water drain out the block. I did this on my head install a few weeks ago and I had no water whatsoever to clean out the bolt holes. Here's a link with all the info on wrench sizes needed and where the plugs are located. Awesome tip by 02 Pewter LS1! And yes, you still need to run a chaser tap in the holes, but everything is dry coming out.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/335413-afr-s-fast-90-nw-90tb-poly-mounts-fast-rails-finally-done.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/335413-afr-s-fast-90-nw-90tb-poly-mounts-fast-rails-finally-done.html
I'm a little **** retentive when it comes to stuff like this so I would be afraid to completely unload one bolt and replace it with a stud for fear of jacking up the torque values. I hope that makes sense (couple of beers under the belt). You wouldn't tighten one bolt to final torque and go to the next when installing them so it seems like a bad move to do the same when pulling it apart. Also, like stated above, you'd definitely want to chase the threads when you've got it apart.
I hadn't thought about the locktite or having the head being held by just a few bolts. 
