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Old Aug 14, 2005 | 07:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by racer7088
Critter,

Pistons are made for the bore on the box. The clearance is built into them from the factory. If they say it's for a 3.905 bore thats what they mean. This shop that did your engine must be in the 50s still I guess? Also you CAN and SHOULD double check it as well off of where they measure the suggested skirt clearance but it should already be designed into the piston. We have used many Mahle pistons with GREAT results especially on NA apps. That sucks but do you know what the bore size the pistons were made for vs. what they were really honed to? There's where your problem lies or most of it probably.
Yeah, I don't think the problem was the Mahle pistons. In fact, I want to try again with them. I don't know what the box said anymore or what it was honed to. The shop that fixed it up afterwards told me the pistons were way to tight.

The shop does circle track SBCs and had never done an LS1 or used Mahle pistons. I did check clearance and thought it a bit tight, but my technology is 30 years old and I knew piston design has improved and they don't require the kind of clearance we used to run, so I assumed the shop knew what it was doing. I wouldn't have questioned your clearance if you had done it either. 'course, it would have been right if you did it ....
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Old Aug 14, 2005 | 07:17 PM
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Carl,

That sucks and I do feel very bad for you. I just read your post on this other engine problem and posted something. Hope you find out what went wrong.
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Old Aug 14, 2005 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by racer7088
Carl,

That sucks and I do feel very bad for you. I just read your post on this other engine problem and posted something. Hope you find out what went wrong.
Thanks. It is pretty bizarre. After running the car for two years, I decided to make a killer forged short block so I farmed out the machining and did the assembly over the winter. When it came apart on the third pass, my confidence had pretty well been shattered. I spent some serious bucks to make the race in BG and had a pro shop put it back together using only the block. Imagine my surprise when this motor came apart on the fourth pass ...
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Old Aug 14, 2005 | 10:42 PM
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If you do figure it out conclusively, I hope you will post back here and let us know.
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Old Aug 14, 2005 | 11:24 PM
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in the haynes manual it says to pack the oil pump full of petroleum jelly, anyone ever tried this?
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 08:35 AM
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I use the Super Slick Assembly Lube from Permetex..it sticks to what ever you put in on real well and will not run off like motor oil does...I put it on the camshaft, chain, rocker arms, push rods, ect....then like someone said before have the coils unpluged and turn the engine over with the starter until I see some oil pressure ..then plug everything together and fire it up..I always have oil pressure immediately when it starts..it works for me..
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 10:06 AM
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When I assembled my motor, I put ARP assembly lube on just about everything that moves. Just do an oil change after the initial start up to get rid of the extra lube that comes off.

Keith
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mmmchickenboy
in the haynes manual it says to pack the oil pump full of petroleum jelly, anyone ever tried this?
Why.........

Keith
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 10:26 AM
  #29  
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it said to do that to prime the oil pump. otherwise there would be air in the cavities in the oil pump and when you start the engine it wouldn't "pull" oil into the pump.
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 10:57 AM
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Using petroleum jelly to prime oil pumps has been done for many years on many types of engines. The jelly dissolves quite well in the oil after it starts running. It should work fine. On SBCs I never bothered since I could always spin the pump up with a drill.
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by BJM
If you do figure it out conclusively, I hope you will post back here and let us know.
The people who built it back up again (new crank, rods, pistons, valves) say that the piston to wall clearance was too tight, causing the anti friction coating to sluff off and get into the oil. From there it got into the bearings and wiped them out. The oil was black with non metalic debris after less than a half hour of run time.
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 09:43 AM
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What pistons did you wind up with and what clearance are you now running?
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by BJM
What pistons did you wind up with and what clearance are you now running?
I farmed the rebuild out due to lack of time. They put J&E in because they had them on the shelf. The clearance might be on the build sheet, but I don't have that with me.
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