Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

I am getting ready to start yet another motor build. This time I am planning on doing everything that I had wanted to do in the past but never did. I am looking for some ideas and criticism on what we're building.....

LS6 block:
- Bored 3.905
- Line Honed
- ARP Studs on top and bottom
- Coatings on Bearings and oil pan
- O-ringed

Rotating assembly:
Pistons: Diamond Forged Dome Coated Skirts and Dome
Rods: Unsure, 1st choice would be LS7 titanium
Crank: Factory lightened

Heads:
AFR 225s
Cr: 11.5:1 - 12.0:1
Cam: 238/242 XER 110 + 2
Cometic Gasket
Coated Runners, valves, chambers

Intake: Fast 90mm Ported
TB: NW 90mm
Intake tube: 3.5" aluminum

Goal: 550-600 crank HP - 750-850 Nitrous
Phil

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

I would do everything you've listed except I'd use Comp LSK lobes instead of XE-Rs. You'll get more lift and more rpm stability with LSK lobes (according to Comp). This will compliment your AFR 225s.

1QuickT-A

iTrader: (12)

Sounds like a nice setup Phil!

Tony Mamo @ AFR

iTrader: (13)

Phil....

Sounds great....but I would shelve the stock crank (guess thats defeating the objective though!) I would forego the money spent on "lightening" and buy an aftermarket crank instead.

My thoughts are if your going to BUILD an engine (from scratch) why not pop a 4" arm in it. Can't beat the stroker for "real world" TQ and power gains at everyday usable RPM's. I just love the grunt a larger displacement engine gives you squirting around town rowing the gears. You don't have to wind her up to appreciate all your hard work!

Good luck with whatever you decide. Sounds like a cool project no matter which direction you choose. Call/PM me if I can be of any assistance...

Tony M.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Ultimate? If you want 520+rwhp or so on a 348, then I'd do this:

-Comp Cams XE-R 244/248 .612"/.615" 110+1 LSA for symmetric valve events and nice, high revving
-AFR 225s 62 milled .042" for 55cc Chambers with Comp 921 Springs (11.75:1 SCR, and 8.5:1 DCR with that cam and Cometic .040" gaskets with the Diamond pistons below--perfect imo)
-Morel Hydraulic Lifters
-Diamond Flat Top Forged Pistons with -2cc Valve Reliefs (dome is not where you want to build combustion for flame travel purposes)
-Manely Lightweight I-Beam Forged Connecting Rod
-Port Matched FAST LSX90 and NW90 TB
-LG Pro 1-3/4" Longtubes (yes the LG's are better than any 1-7/8s for the Vette because of the 32" primaries vs 24"--HP might be off 5rwhp, but area under the curve will be huge advantage for the 32" primaried 1-3/4 headers)
-Halltech TRAP because of its filter and the fact that it actually sucks cold, pressurized air in off the bottom of the car
-ASP Pulley and Mezeire EWP
-Closed-Loop Speed Density Tune--so no MAF
-Lightweight clutch of some kind, Spec Stage 5 with Aluminum Flywheel or the lightweight Textralia when it comes out

Spinmonster

Phil, go solid roller so u can rev the shet out of it and get 4.10's with the top end made up on the rev side. You will hook better and gain with the faster revs. Bigger duration to move the power band up and up the compression to make even more power from the intake close point delay from the longer duration cam.

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

I agree.
If you going ***** out go solid roller.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

I agree, if you get all new everything, go solid.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Anyone have the specs on the LSK lobes?
Phil

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Or, you could do a Comp Renegade 266/270 .621"/.621" 106+1 LSA. It's hydraulic roller. But, get ready to rev the **** out of your setup and throw a LOT more compression at it. Not an ideal choice for a 348, but would be great in a 402 or something.

dug

iTrader: (10)

While youre at it why not build a LS2 402? Or at least used a ls2 4" block.

RyanJ

That setup doesn't seem "Ulitimate" to me. I'd look for 14.x:1, a solid roller to keep it on the street at that compression on 93 (race-gas at the track on a different tune), All Pro heads built for you and your combo (like the cam should be), a belt drive and EWP, Custom headers, etc.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

Do a stroker for sure. 383 would be sweet around town if you want to keep your block.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

The title says ultimate street and strip 346. Running super high compression and a solid roller is going to be crappy on the street and will require C16 or something.

I still think my original hydraulic roller setup will make destroying power while being pretty livable. It'll run 10s NA no problem, still run on 93 octane, and be livable in traffic with the A/C going. That's a good street/strip car.

RyanJ

I'm not saying your setup isn't nice. Its really nice. But I like to go all out I guess. Cam and comforability (is that a word?) are completely subjective. You don't know what I would like vs. you vs. him. 1000rpm idle never bothered me, and lowering timing on 93 octance is really no big deal. I think someone could live with a nice-sized solid roller that will let 14:1 live on the street. I know it wont be easy...maybe 12.5 or 13 would be better. I'm not the engine builder, just giving my .02.

No matter what the compression...put a solid roller in the motor if you are serious...and bump the compression a little since you'll be spraying.

Spinmonster

I was suggesting solid roller for the extended rpm range allowing more gearing to shorten 60' times and gain the few fractions of a second you need to get intot he 9's as is your stock displacement goal. Then with 4.10's and an 8k rev ability, you will still get the mph trap speed ability with 4th gear.