Rear cover installation question
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 3
From: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Rear cover installation question Okay, here goes-
I've had a rear main seal leak since I bought the engine, I've tried already to replace it, no luck. Still leaked just as bad.
So, this time around I pulled the engine (again) and decided to go ahead and replace the entire rear cover, just in case it was warped (for 20 bucks I might as well eliminate it).
I dropped the oil pan off, and took a straight edge to the bottom of the block and aligned the cover exactly to the straight edge. I then used feeler gauges to exactly adjust the left-right exactly centered, and tightened it down to the recommended 18 ft/lbs. I also took a scotch brite pad and scuffed the rear of the crank (where the seal mates) to make sure there were no ridges/sharp spots. I then cleaned it completely to remove oil and installed the seal dry. I was very careful not to let the edges of the seal roll in.
I'm ready to install the oil pan (cleaned gasket, with a small bead of RTV at the joints of the front/rear cover to block. Is there ANYTHING else I should be doing here. If this thing leaks again I'm strongly considering dropping the shortblock off a cliff and starting over. Any other places it could be leaking from I should check while I'm at it? It definitely seems to be the bellhousing area, and the block from 1" in front of the bellhousing forward is dry as a bone.
Thanks guys, if there's ANY other tips, throw them my way, I'm going nuts here.
edit: A couple other things. It's definitely (100%) not the cam sensor, oil pressure sensor or valve covers. I've checked and it's also dry as a bone from 1" above the rear main to the top of the engine. I even dye-lited it to check.
I've had a rear main seal leak since I bought the engine, I've tried already to replace it, no luck. Still leaked just as bad.
So, this time around I pulled the engine (again) and decided to go ahead and replace the entire rear cover, just in case it was warped (for 20 bucks I might as well eliminate it).
I dropped the oil pan off, and took a straight edge to the bottom of the block and aligned the cover exactly to the straight edge. I then used feeler gauges to exactly adjust the left-right exactly centered, and tightened it down to the recommended 18 ft/lbs. I also took a scotch brite pad and scuffed the rear of the crank (where the seal mates) to make sure there were no ridges/sharp spots. I then cleaned it completely to remove oil and installed the seal dry. I was very careful not to let the edges of the seal roll in.
I'm ready to install the oil pan (cleaned gasket, with a small bead of RTV at the joints of the front/rear cover to block. Is there ANYTHING else I should be doing here. If this thing leaks again I'm strongly considering dropping the shortblock off a cliff and starting over. Any other places it could be leaking from I should check while I'm at it? It definitely seems to be the bellhousing area, and the block from 1" in front of the bellhousing forward is dry as a bone.
Thanks guys, if there's ANY other tips, throw them my way, I'm going nuts here.
edit: A couple other things. It's definitely (100%) not the cam sensor, oil pressure sensor or valve covers. I've checked and it's also dry as a bone from 1" above the rear main to the top of the engine. I even dye-lited it to check.
This is a quote from an unidentified source , it may help you:
"
Since the covers and pan and bellhousing are kind of like a puzzle, I Installed the bellhousing on the back of the block then set the oil pan in place. I then threaded and lightly tightened the bolts that feed through the bell housing into the oil pan. This will center your oil pan where it needs to be and allow it to be flush with the back of the block. I then installed and tightened a few of the oil pan bolts to keep it from moving. Now remove the bell housing. Now that your oil pan is in the proper position, your front and rear covers should line up perfectlly. No need for speacialty tools."
"
Since the covers and pan and bellhousing are kind of like a puzzle, I Installed the bellhousing on the back of the block then set the oil pan in place. I then threaded and lightly tightened the bolts that feed through the bell housing into the oil pan. This will center your oil pan where it needs to be and allow it to be flush with the back of the block. I then installed and tightened a few of the oil pan bolts to keep it from moving. Now remove the bell housing. Now that your oil pan is in the proper position, your front and rear covers should line up perfectlly. No need for speacialty tools."
