Breaking in YOUR forged 346.
08-23-2005, 10:42 PM
#22
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10w30 something shoudl be fine...
Originally Posted by TA BOY
im building my block this weekend. what kind of oil should i use since i cant use synth.
08-24-2005, 12:33 AM
#25
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regular old oil is whats in mine...
its not like you are running it for a long time, or anything
I'll probalby wait till 5k at the earliest b/f i go back to synthetic.
change it quite often anyways.
its not like you are running it for a long time, or anything
I'll probalby wait till 5k at the earliest b/f i go back to synthetic.
change it quite often anyways.
08-24-2005, 06:42 AM
#26
Even split of opinions/experience here. Seems to me it doesn't matter much how you break a newly forged motor in ... everyone seems to be saying the most important things are warming up the internals before raising rpm's and using non-synthetic oil to seat the rings good. Does this sound right?
Option 1. Though the LS1 engine ships with synthetic, go with regular 10w-30 for the first 500-1500 miles ... change at 500 miles then at 1000 miles ... go synthetic at 1500 miles and don't get over 4000 rpm until 500 miles, then, up it to no more than 6000 rpm until 1000 miles. ALWAYS let it warm up for about 15 minutes before juicing it from 0-1000 miles and keep the rpm's up ... not too high ... not too low
Option 2. Warm the bearings/internals up for about 30 minutes, jump on the dyno, strap it down and dyno it until you force it to produce the most theoretically possible numbers, then, take it out on the road and run the living **** out of it.
Option 1. Though the LS1 engine ships with synthetic, go with regular 10w-30 for the first 500-1500 miles ... change at 500 miles then at 1000 miles ... go synthetic at 1500 miles and don't get over 4000 rpm until 500 miles, then, up it to no more than 6000 rpm until 1000 miles. ALWAYS let it warm up for about 15 minutes before juicing it from 0-1000 miles and keep the rpm's up ... not too high ... not too low
Option 2. Warm the bearings/internals up for about 30 minutes, jump on the dyno, strap it down and dyno it until you force it to produce the most theoretically possible numbers, then, take it out on the road and run the living **** out of it.
Last edited by JEB99TA; 08-25-2005 at 05:42 AM.
08-25-2005, 10:14 PM
#27
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i personally would run the dino oil for two reasons, the rings, and most important too me is that after the first couple hundred miles id change the oil, therefore the dino is also cheaper to toss out, any forged piston will require more of a warm up process due to the fact that they are run a little looser due to the thermal expansion, kinda like the common piston slap the ls1s had to begin with 
btw last time i checked this is no breakin period for bearings if the things is breaking in/ wearing in bearings to fit youve got problems
Later,
Greg
btw last time i checked this is no breakin period for bearings if the things is breaking in/ wearing in bearings to fit youve got problems
Later,
Greg
08-26-2005, 10:09 AM
#29
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Break-in? We picked it up and drove from Baton Rouge to Denver. It's now broken in.
Originally Posted by JEB99TA
How did you break in your motor when you had it forged? Like you'd break-in a stock engine or much different? Any tricks or tips to breaking one in?
Did you have any problems you feel might be directly related to breaking it in too hard or even not hard enough? What do forged internals like most?
Did you have any problems you feel might be directly related to breaking it in too hard or even not hard enough? What do forged internals like most?
