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Correct way to install rear main seal

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Old Sep 2, 2005 | 04:45 PM
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Default Correct way to install rear main seal

Anyone have the correct way to install a rear main seal?
Phil
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Old Sep 2, 2005 | 05:40 PM
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with the Kent moore gen 3 rear main seal installer
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Old Sep 2, 2005 | 05:41 PM
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The GM OEM rear seal is Bi-Directional; it has two seal lips. One points in towards the engine, the outward towards the tranny. You'll need a seal installation tool (available from GM, or many engine building tool outlets) to make sure the seal goes on without cocking.

The seal installation tool is made up of matching, machined, male/female parts that are pulled together by tightening down a through bolt. The installation tool should be slid into the seal before the cover is installed on the engine. This ensures that the inner, angled seal lip doesn't get folded under.

Once the cover is installed on the engine, the install tool can be removed.

If you don't already have it, I HIGHLY recommend you send for a copy of, "How To Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s", by Will Handzel, published by CARTECH. The book has MANY build chapters, loaded with good, high-quality pictures of the procedures. If a special tool is needed, they list it. The book even has an outstanding chapter about how to drop the engine/tranny out the bottom of an F-Body, or a 'Vette. I ordered mine from Scoggin-Dickey Parts Center (SDPC) for $21.70, including shipping.

http://www.sdpc2000.com/

Another VERY useful, informative book is, "Chevy LS1/LS6 Performance", by Christopher P. Endres, published by HPBooks. TONS of LS1/LS6 info in this book, too, although as a reference for use while tearing down/rebuilding an LS1/LS6, I'd opt for the "How To Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s" as my 1st book.
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Old Sep 3, 2005 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by bichin95redta
The GM OEM rear seal is Bi-Directional; it has two seal lips. One points in towards the engine, the outward towards the tranny. You'll need a seal installation tool (available from GM, or many engine building tool outlets) to make sure the seal goes on without cocking.

The seal installation tool is made up of matching, machined, male/female parts that are pulled together by tightening down a through bolt. The installation tool should be slid into the seal before the cover is installed on the engine. This ensures that the inner, angled seal lip doesn't get folded under.

Once the cover is installed on the engine, the install tool can be removed.

If you don't already have it, I HIGHLY recommend you send for a copy of, "How To Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s", by Will Handzel, published by CARTECH. The book has MANY build chapters, loaded with good, high-quality pictures of the procedures. If a special tool is needed, they list it. The book even has an outstanding chapter about how to drop the engine/tranny out the bottom of an F-Body, or a 'Vette. I ordered mine from Scoggin-Dickey Parts Center (SDPC) for $21.70, including shipping.

http://www.sdpc2000.com/

Another VERY useful, informative book is, "Chevy LS1/LS6 Performance", by Christopher P. Endres, published by HPBooks. TONS of LS1/LS6 info in this book, too, although as a reference for use while tearing down/rebuilding an LS1/LS6, I'd opt for the "How To Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s" as my 1st book.


Best book I have ever bought and damn glad I did!!!
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Old Sep 3, 2005 | 11:11 PM
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racecar's Avatar
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The book tells all!! I made a big tapered seal installer from aluminum on the lathe.
It fits on the end of the crank, and the seal slides over. It would be tough without it.
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