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Question about replacing valves on BN LS6 head?

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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 11:03 AM
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Default Question about replacing valves on BN LS6 head?

I'm just wondering if someone can clarify this for me. I have a set brand new complete LS6 heads. I was thinking of replacing the valves with some Manley race-flow valves-same size. So I called up the local machine shop and asked how much for a valve job to replace the valves. He tells me no valve job is needed if your getting the exact same size-don't neeed to lap them either. You can just drop them in and your good to go. Is this correct? Also do you think there would be any measurable gain to switching the stock valves to the Manley's?

thanks!
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Vortech
I'm just wondering if someone can clarify this for me. I have a set brand new complete LS6 heads. I was thinking of replacing the valves with some Manley race-flow valves-same size. So I called up the local machine shop and asked how much for a valve job to replace the valves. He tells me no valve job is needed if your getting the exact same size-don't neeed to lap them either. You can just drop them in and your good to go. Is this correct? Also do you think there would be any measurable gain to switching the stock valves to the Manley's?

thanks!
Yes there is no need to do a valve job just to change valves. Assuming you are using the same size valve. I would use a REV myself. The Manleys dont seem to be as true out of the box. Run the REVs and get a 30* back cut and they will flow better than the Manleys, and have better true in the stem.

Brandon
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 01:10 PM
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Why would you want to replace hollow stem valves with aftermarket non hollow stem valves?
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 02:37 PM
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Although I'm relatively new to LS1s, I've often wondered why I haven't read about more valve failures. The giant cams, by 70s standards, that most folks use here and the spring pressures needed to keep them from bouncing around would seem like they'd be tough on valves. Evidently the stockers are pretty tough sobs.
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Why would you want to replace hollow stem valves with aftermarket non hollow stem valves?
Solid stainless valves are more durable with high rpm and high combustion pressures. It just has to make sense for the added stability and added weight. Both of which are minimal. If you just want more flow you could also have the LS6 valves background.

Brandon
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 03:05 PM
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I'm just looking for bit of extra flow that's all. Also these heads are 05 castings so they don't have the hollow stem valves. It also looks like they put some sort of finish in the combustion chamber to smooth it out compared to my 02 LS6 castings. If I back cut the existing valves then wouldn't I require a valve job for sure?
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Vortech
I'm just looking for bit of extra flow that's all. Also these heads are 05 castings so they don't have the hollow stem valves. It also looks like they put some sort of finish in the combustion chamber to smooth it out compared to my 02 LS6 castings. If I back cut the existing valves then wouldn't I require a valve job for sure?
No you wouldnt need a valve job. You are cutting below the seat contact surface. Assuming the shop knows what they are doing.

Check your pm too.

Brandon
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