Timing properly
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From: Thornton, CO
Timing properly I have a fresh block with fresh internals here.
I have searched, and searched, and searched some more. Seems I think I know what I am doing here, but I want to verify.
Timing chain = Comp adjustable
Motor sits at TDC.
So I have no beginning point to base anything off. I need to install the crank sprocket gear onto the crank.
When the motor is TDC, I just need to install the sprocket at 12 o'clock, right?? Then obviously line the cam sprocket gear to 6 o'clock.
Also, what is the easiest way to get the sprocket all the way on without buying a special tool??
Thanks in advance!
I have searched, and searched, and searched some more. Seems I think I know what I am doing here, but I want to verify.
Timing chain = Comp adjustable
Motor sits at TDC.
So I have no beginning point to base anything off. I need to install the crank sprocket gear onto the crank.
When the motor is TDC, I just need to install the sprocket at 12 o'clock, right?? Then obviously line the cam sprocket gear to 6 o'clock.
Also, what is the easiest way to get the sprocket all the way on without buying a special tool??
Thanks in advance!
Well, when pistons 1 and 6 are at TDC, the crank gear dot should be at 12 and the cam gear dot should be at 6. Top dead center can occur in 4 different variations: pistons 1 and 6, pistons 8 and 5, pistons 7 and 4, and pistons 3 and 2 will all be at TDC when the crank gear is at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 9 o'clock respectively.
I know when I did my cam install this was true with the stock setup. I don't see why you wouldn't be able to set up your timing using this same logic.
I know when I did my cam install this was true with the stock setup. I don't see why you wouldn't be able to set up your timing using this same logic.
It shouldn't be hard to line up the gears. The crank has a key on it that the crank gear slides onto to keep it from slipping around. The crank gear should have marks for 0 to +/-4 degree of timing, depending on what gear you get. If you slip it onto the key at 0 timing, then make sure the crank dot is straight up, then put the cam sprocket on with the dot straight down, you're good to go. Crank it over a few times and make sure they both line up (crank gear 12 o'clock, cam gear 6 o'clock) b/c it may look alright at first but there may be some slack in the chain causing it to be misaligned once it's turned over. But, if you want to actually degree the cam with a degreeing wheel it would be even better. I myself didn't have one of those, so I did it by eyeballing.
Go ahead a buy a degree wheel and dial indicator(with mount)and degree it in while the motor is on the stand. Wheel will come w/directions. Tis' the only way to know exactly where the cam falls. Some have been found to be significantly off either way whether by being mis labled/boxed or actual sloppy grinds.
It is very rarely cut exactly as spec'd, and "if" off can/will affect/change timing events which "could" be a bad thing depending on the size of the cam resulting in P2V "issues".
Once you've got the #'s, use your adj. gearset to fine tune it for retard/advance.
Lot's of folks have no problems resulting from the d2d method(myself included), but for optimum efficiency and peace of mind there's no reason not to degree it in while it's on the stand. Kinda' like using an old oil pump in a new build. Why?
Just my .02
It is very rarely cut exactly as spec'd, and "if" off can/will affect/change timing events which "could" be a bad thing depending on the size of the cam resulting in P2V "issues".
Once you've got the #'s, use your adj. gearset to fine tune it for retard/advance.
Lot's of folks have no problems resulting from the d2d method(myself included), but for optimum efficiency and peace of mind there's no reason not to degree it in while it's on the stand. Kinda' like using an old oil pump in a new build. Why?
Just my .02
Last edited by LowETz; Sep 12, 2005 at 09:17 AM.
