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First Cam Swap - HELP

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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 12:15 PM
  #21  
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i tried to use the dowels and they wouldnt slide in. i just used the old school method..spin it, leave it for about 10 minutes, spin it again and if nothing happens..PULL THE CAM QUICK
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 12:18 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ninobrn99
i tried to use the dowels and they wouldnt slide in. i just used the old school method..spin it, leave it for about 10 minutes, spin it again and if nothing happens..PULL THE CAM QUICK
That is called the "Russian Roulette" method.

You are supposed to spin the cam for the lifters to go up in the cups, then insert the dowels.
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 12:22 PM
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i know thats what its called. What i was saying was after doing all that the dowels wouldnt slide in so i said eff it and just did it my way I dont know what the deal was. I just wanted to try them out to see how easy it made it, but it was being such a PITA i didnt bother. Im not trying to be rude So hows the UAE?? still hot?? been about a year since i was there.
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ninobrn99
i know thats what its called. What i was saying was after doing all that the dowels wouldnt slide in so i said eff it and just did it my way I dont know what the deal was. I just wanted to try them out to see how easy it made it, but it was being such a PITA i didnt bother. Im not trying to be rude So hows the UAE?? still hot?? been about a year since i was there.
Yeap, still hot and humid. That is why our racing season is delayed untill 28th of next month
I can't wait to try my new goodies (PRC 5.3L stage 2.5) with a good little 200 shot dry
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 01:03 PM
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sweet!! i saw a red z when i was there..that was it..no other fbodies.
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 01:08 PM
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There are a few, but even fewer modded.
Firebirds and TAs are like really rare.
Most Camaros are 97 and older.
Ohh well, I get to spank all the mustangs by myself

I even got to spank a C6 just this week, should have seen the look on his face
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 01:10 PM
  #27  
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yeah it was a LT1. must be nice being one of the baddest ****** there was it an arab driving it or american??
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ninobrn99
yeah it was a LT1. must be nice being one of the baddest ****** there was it an arab driving it or american??
I don't know about baddest, they are seriously into the rice thing here, and I've seen some 9.5 sec Skylines.
But i can say, I'm one of the toughest street legal ***** out there.

I do not know what he was, but i knew he was spanked
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Old Sep 25, 2005 | 02:14 AM
  #29  
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Man id have to say i was a little nervious the first time pulling out the cam but i used the two dowls and that defintly worked out really good. I am waiting on my slp oil pump to come in before i button up the cam/oil pump swap. The 5/16 dowls were a little snug going in but it was worth the few extra dollars!!
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Old Sep 25, 2005 | 05:57 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Somebody09
I have some questions too...
1) Should I remove the valve springs and rocker arms before I spin the cam and slide in the dowels? I think yes but I just want to make sure.
2) After installing the new cam... before putting the covers on, the chain on, and finishing the valve train, how do I make sure that it's timed correctly?

Thanks,
somebody
You have to have the rockers off to spin the cam. Springs are mounted to the head, so they only push from the rocker arm.
When you put the chain on that is when you time it. there are 2 dots that you have to line up darn near perfect. there is one on the cam sprocket and on the crank sprocket.
If you have a double roller chain, that makes it a little more tough to get that chain back on.
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Old Sep 25, 2005 | 04:56 PM
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leave the springs on otherwise you will loose the valves!! When you are pulling a cam, just take the rockers and pushrods out - those are the only valvetrain parts that react to the cam itself. The valves are retained to the head by the use of keepers, which in turn or secured to the spring via a retainer. Do not take the springs off until the new cam is back in.
When your ready to swap the springs, you could use air in each cylinder by way of compressed air in the spark plug bore, or you can do it the smarter way and use top dead center for every cylinder - by using this way, there is no chance of a failure like using air. Any airline hose could have a rupture at a really bad time.

DON NOT PULL THE SPRINGS OFF UNTIL THE CAM IS IN AND YOU HAVE A WAY OF HOLDING UP THE VALVES!!!!
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 07:38 PM
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Thanks.
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 07:57 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 01350ss
leave the springs on otherwise you will loose the valves!! When you are pulling a cam, just take the rockers and pushrods out - those are the only valvetrain parts that react to the cam itself. The valves are retained to the head by the use of keepers, which in turn or secured to the spring via a retainer. Do not take the springs off until the new cam is back in.
When your ready to swap the springs, you could use air in each cylinder by way of compressed air in the spark plug bore, or you can do it the smarter way and use top dead center for every cylinder - by using this way, there is no chance of a failure like using air. Any airline hose could have a rupture at a really bad time.

DON NOT PULL THE SPRINGS OFF UNTIL THE CAM IS IN AND YOU HAVE A WAY OF HOLDING UP THE VALVES!!!!
maybe you shouldnt buy your airlines at kmart. air is a perfectly safe method. tdc doesnt keep the valves from falling it just keeps them from falling too far. I've never in 30 years seen an air hose blow that was in good condition. Worn hoses just waiting to go will of course go. Replace worn tools as you would worn parts. Sorry but I've never seen the air hose paranoia before its a perfectly accepted method. You forgot the nylon rope as well..
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Old Dec 5, 2005 | 09:07 PM
  #34  
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I even seen people use bicyle kick stands to put in the plug hole before.
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