Ideal setups?
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12 Second Club
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Palos Hills, IL
Don't knwo if a thread like this has ever been made but ima do it anyways.
So i'm getting a project LS1. 6 speed w/high miles
Am looking at what to do. Kinda want to do something nobody has done but in steps- i wanna chase down some records first. The overall idea will be running naturally aspirated and w/ a spray.would prefer no boost.
I've looked into several diff options. Many of which are a new bottom end an Iron block.
I have thought stock sized, 6.0L and 7.0L blocks. Am undecided of cubic inches. I've thought keep it like stock and forged the internals, have thought of going w/ 370's, 375, 383, 388, 396, 398, 400, 402, 406, 408, 410 thats really the highest i wanted to go.
I also have been looking into cams trying to figure out exactly which one to comensate for the bottom end. Let me knwo what you think for whichever of those sizes you would pick ^ I'm thinking a cam no smaller than 232/232 on a 112. also trying to find out if i want Solid roller or hydraulic roller
Headers- was trying to find out what size i dont want to buy alot of types just one size to run stock cubes AND stroker cubes so like 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8's.
Already knwo the rest of what i want to do-if you ahve any major suggestions on weight reduction i.e. removing bumpers air bags whatever. let me knwo and if its NHRA legal.
Well thats my idea. Your ideal setups will influence me one way or the other. So really I'm saying LETS ALL BUILD a car to jsut about all of our specs! see what it is capable of POST UP!
So i'm getting a project LS1. 6 speed w/high miles
Am looking at what to do. Kinda want to do something nobody has done but in steps- i wanna chase down some records first. The overall idea will be running naturally aspirated and w/ a spray.would prefer no boost.
I've looked into several diff options. Many of which are a new bottom end an Iron block.
I have thought stock sized, 6.0L and 7.0L blocks. Am undecided of cubic inches. I've thought keep it like stock and forged the internals, have thought of going w/ 370's, 375, 383, 388, 396, 398, 400, 402, 406, 408, 410 thats really the highest i wanted to go.
I also have been looking into cams trying to figure out exactly which one to comensate for the bottom end. Let me knwo what you think for whichever of those sizes you would pick ^ I'm thinking a cam no smaller than 232/232 on a 112. also trying to find out if i want Solid roller or hydraulic roller
Headers- was trying to find out what size i dont want to buy alot of types just one size to run stock cubes AND stroker cubes so like 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8's.
Already knwo the rest of what i want to do-if you ahve any major suggestions on weight reduction i.e. removing bumpers air bags whatever. let me knwo and if its NHRA legal.
Well thats my idea. Your ideal setups will influence me one way or the other. So really I'm saying LETS ALL BUILD a car to jsut about all of our specs! see what it is capable of POST UP!
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,321
Likes: 0
From: Palos Hills, IL
Lets try this now while more people are on TTT fellas lets hear what youthink you would do- kinda a budget motor if you can see it that way
would you go carbureted or stay fuel injected w/a 90mm intake. bigger cubes or smaller cubes? bigger cam or smaller cam...let me know!
would you go carbureted or stay fuel injected w/a 90mm intake. bigger cubes or smaller cubes? bigger cam or smaller cam...let me know!
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Palos Hills, IL
408 seems to be a popular decision. What block to go w/ I've also looked into the 402 like SLP has...
Not 100% sure, what about cam sizes i need a cam to run in a Cam only car for a while but will be sufficient for the larger cubes.
EDIT: I'd like to use the best block for "somewhat" of a budget motor. Don't want to have to spend too much to get a iron bloick thats SLIGHTLY larger than stock
Not 100% sure, what about cam sizes i need a cam to run in a Cam only car for a while but will be sufficient for the larger cubes.
EDIT: I'd like to use the best block for "somewhat" of a budget motor. Don't want to have to spend too much to get a iron bloick thats SLIGHTLY larger than stock
Last edited by 02WS6Bird; Sep 26, 2005 at 06:34 PM.
I dunno about the cam size, Im about ignorant when it comes to those specs. I just like how "408" sounds personally. That, and it seems there's a good balance between HP and TQ curves with that engine (not to say there arent w/ others, but the 408 seems to be nice).
And I dont think you can really go wrong w/ either block. Of course the iron block is going to add some more weight, but if you can get a truck block for next to nothing...why worry about it? I know thru Pace Parts you can get a bare 6.0 block for like 840. If I were you, and wanted a truck block I'd just try to find a wrecked truck and nab the engine. And who knows, try contacting some sponsers and see if one of them is willing to possibly back your efforts a little bit. Never know, might be able to get "something" out of the deal, even if its just tires...
And I dont think you can really go wrong w/ either block. Of course the iron block is going to add some more weight, but if you can get a truck block for next to nothing...why worry about it? I know thru Pace Parts you can get a bare 6.0 block for like 840. If I were you, and wanted a truck block I'd just try to find a wrecked truck and nab the engine. And who knows, try contacting some sponsers and see if one of them is willing to possibly back your efforts a little bit. Never know, might be able to get "something" out of the deal, even if its just tires...
I think Scoggins Dickey has a better deal on 402s than SLP, better rods, balanced/assembled with parts needed for conversion included in the 4,100 package price:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...7&page=1&pp=20
Plan B for me would be to get a 6.0 truck engine locally and get a stroker rotating assy for it. The good part of this deal is that these engines come with heads that have same ports as LS6 heads, but with bigger chambers to keep compression reasonable for a street engine. And the junkyards just consider these truck engines, they aren't clued in as to the performance possibilities of the truck 6.0s. My nephew was telling me yesturday that a couple of years ago a friend of his popped the LS1 in his car and found a 6.0 in a junkyard. They wanted $150 for it! Doesn't know if the guy got it cause he was asking around about hassle of swapping. I told him if he heard of something like this coming around again to call me ASAP. My SS only has ~ 54k and is running like a champ, but I'd love to start building a 402 project at a leasurely pace so I can glom the best deals.
Plan C would be to buy a $250 LS1 block and install a 383 stroker kit. I think plan B is the best overall deal cause of the heads coming along with the engine.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...7&page=1&pp=20
Plan B for me would be to get a 6.0 truck engine locally and get a stroker rotating assy for it. The good part of this deal is that these engines come with heads that have same ports as LS6 heads, but with bigger chambers to keep compression reasonable for a street engine. And the junkyards just consider these truck engines, they aren't clued in as to the performance possibilities of the truck 6.0s. My nephew was telling me yesturday that a couple of years ago a friend of his popped the LS1 in his car and found a 6.0 in a junkyard. They wanted $150 for it! Doesn't know if the guy got it cause he was asking around about hassle of swapping. I told him if he heard of something like this coming around again to call me ASAP. My SS only has ~ 54k and is running like a champ, but I'd love to start building a 402 project at a leasurely pace so I can glom the best deals.
Plan C would be to buy a $250 LS1 block and install a 383 stroker kit. I think plan B is the best overall deal cause of the heads coming along with the engine.

