glennhl

OK, please tell me what kind of exhaust you have. I have a similar set-up, a little more agressive cam (just a little more lift), but I don't have a ported TB. I made 381 hp, but that was through a catted Y pipe and then through an eletric cutout mounted in the I pipe right before the axle. When I closed the cutout and ran through the stock catback exhaust the car made 355 hp. I lost 26 hp through the stock muffler!!!!

954RR

iTrader: (1)

The local track is now closed here and I only had the car for 2.5 months and have been too busy w/college to get there, however I may borrow a G-tech to get an idea.

The dyno was a dynojet aswell. The guy that had the car before me said it made 385/367 on a mustang right after the cam was put in, I saw the graph, and this was all done at staightline performance. Only things I have done to it between then and now is ported tb and K&N. Also added TTII wheels which are a little heavier and did a top engine clean with new plugs. Elevation of where it made 385hp was 500 ft and I am at 1100.


Wonder if the cam has been rounded off a little in the 6000 miles it has been in? I also have the cam card in possesion for this cam
If this is the case or something is messed up with the cam I may do an F13 or something.
THanks a bunch for the replies so far 66deuce!!

954RR

iTrader: (1)

I have Kooks stainess 3/4" longtubes and catted Y. Cats are gutted carsounds. From there it is sock with the exception of a magnaflow muffler welded into place. I have no cutout either. Is the exhaust keeping this thing bottled up?

How do you like being an Mech E. by the way? I graduate soon.

glennhl

I would imagine that the Magnaflow Muffler is better than stock. But, you could most likely gain 15 hp with a cutout. I really like the Street Pro Electric cutout. However, it's confusing since the guy that had it before you said it made much more power and I'm assuming it was with the Magnaflow Muffler. I'm running through Random Tech Cats that are not gutted. Plus my Stainless Works Y pipe is only a 2.5" compared to your 3".

954RR

iTrader: (1)

How well does that cutout seal up and last? I am not sure there is room for true duals with the torque arm and stuff in the way. Where is it welded in at?

66deuce

iTrader: (1)

no problem,but i'm afraid i'm not much help,lol.i don't think your cam would be rounded off at only 6000 miles.if it made 385 before on a mustang dyno,i'm sure the cam is fine.from what you told me,i'm stumped as to why your down on power and can't pull anymore timing than what you are now.anybody else have any ideas?

glennhl

You don't need to run true duals if you use a cutout. Get the Street Pro, it seals off great and is very reliable.

Also, I really doubt that a cam only car made 385 on a Mustang dyno. That sounds too high for a Mustang dyno. A 224 cam only car makes somewhere between 370 and 390 on a Dyno Jet, much less on a Mustang dyno.

I think all you need is a cutout and you should get into the 370's.

954RR

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't think so either.... but then again you posted 381 at more than twice that altitiude I am and not sure if you have an ls6 intake, and we are only talking <.020 difference in lift which is very little. Just trying isolate anything that could be potentially wrong with my setup.

glennhl

Altitude doesn't come into play. Almost all dynos give you corrected horsepower and torque for a standard sea level day, so it doesn't matter what the altitude, barometric pressure, or temperature is on the day you run, it corrects it. Our cams are close enough not to be more than a few horsepower difference. We are both running 6 speeds and I assume you still have your 10 bolt (they are more efficient than other stronger rearends). Yes, I do have an LS6 intake because my car is a 2001. Also, my car peaked right at 6500 rpm, so maybe you need to raise your rev limiter. As far as timing, I didn't want the tuner to add much because of the hot weather we have here and the crappy 91 octance gas. He added some and I also did not make any more power, so he split the difference instead of going back to stock.

Get a cutout and raise the rev limiter to 6600 and you'll be there. Of course, raise the rev limiter at your own risk since you have a 2000 with the weaker rod bolts.

954RR

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for correcting me on the altitude! I guess I didn't know that. Yes I still have the 10 bolt. I think I may go back to the dyno with some 92 in there and shut off the knock sensors and add timing something like 26* or so starting around 4500 and listen for audiable knock. I have my limiter set at 6500 but for some reason only reved it to 6200. I have also put in ARP rod bolts in since I have had it so hopefully I am covered.

I think I will stay with this cam and just add a pulley, one electric cutout and a nice set of heads and hopefully it will put me over 410 or more.

glennhl

Sounds like a good plan. However, I'd do the cutout first and see how you like it before doing the heads. I'm perfectly happy with 381 at the rear wheels. The car will run high 12's at 113 mph. My next goal is to strengthen the drivetrain and chassis. I just put in a Centerforce DFX clutch, next step is a decent 12 bolt and a set of drag radials. My goal is to get my 60 foot times down from 2.05 to 1.7.