Those with ARP Head Studs....
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From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Those with ARP Head Studs.... Is it a PITA to get the heads off or not that bad? I know it will save time cleaning bolt holes, which is a big bonus.
Charlie
Charlie
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I have ARP head studs in f-body and I've pulled and installed heads number of times with them. You just need watch a bit so you won't scratch the heads. In PITA scale it's 10x less PITA than cleaning the bolt holes for TTY bolts.
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I shouldve installed studs as well, Im kicking myself because I want to remove the heads again but dont want to deal with the cleaning again, oh well, will have to grin and bear it one more time. This time do studs.
Dixit
Dixit
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Originally Posted by LS1FIRE
Sorry for being off topic but i am curious to know if there Is a drain plug for the coolant on the block?
Originally Posted by CAT3
Yes, on the side, you will see a brass looking plug. GL.
Well getting to the plug is not easy, many see it as being more of a PITA to get to those two plugs then to just pull the head off and clean up.
I just do that. I have a wet/dry vaccum with micro attachments from sears. That sucks up all the coolant from the chambers and then one of the micro attachments I put a straw on the end and tape it to the attachment. Then just put it down each bolt hole to get 95% of the coolant out. Then just run the paper towels down each hole once or twice to make sure it was clean. Best way so far. The wet/ddry vac I have is the 2.5gal one from Sears.
Dixit
I just do that. I have a wet/dry vaccum with micro attachments from sears. That sucks up all the coolant from the chambers and then one of the micro attachments I put a straw on the end and tape it to the attachment. Then just put it down each bolt hole to get 95% of the coolant out. Then just run the paper towels down each hole once or twice to make sure it was clean. Best way so far. The wet/ddry vac I have is the 2.5gal one from Sears.
Dixit
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No matter what you decide to go with, bolts or studs, it is ABSOLUTELY IMPERATIVE that you THOROUGHLY blow out/clean ALL blind-tapped holes. ANY liquid trapped in the bottom of a blind hole is a death sentence. When installing the studs/bolts, you'll be trying to compress a liquid, which we all know can't happen; result...cracked block.
I am fortunate enough to have a 2-post lift in my shop, along with some very good friends from my local F-Body car club. For my heads/cam/clutch/intake project, I'm dropping the engine/tranny/K-member out the bottom of the car. This way, everything will be accessible for removal, cleaning, and re-installation. I'm nervous as a ***** in church about my 1st go at an all-aluminum engine, but, like I said, I'm going to have plenty of experienced help.
Good luck to you on your project.
I am fortunate enough to have a 2-post lift in my shop, along with some very good friends from my local F-Body car club. For my heads/cam/clutch/intake project, I'm dropping the engine/tranny/K-member out the bottom of the car. This way, everything will be accessible for removal, cleaning, and re-installation. I'm nervous as a ***** in church about my 1st go at an all-aluminum engine, but, like I said, I'm going to have plenty of experienced help.
Good luck to you on your project.
On The Tree
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Originally Posted by bichin95redta
No matter what you decide to go with, bolts or studs, it is ABSOLUTELY IMPERATIVE that you THOROUGHLY blow out/clean ALL blind-tapped holes. ANY liquid trapped in the bottom of a blind hole is a death sentence. When installing the studs/bolts, you'll be trying to compress a liquid, which we all know can't happen; result...cracked block.
I am fortunate enough to have a 2-post lift in my shop, along with some very good friends from my local F-Body car club. For my heads/cam/clutch/intake project, I'm dropping the engine/tranny/K-member out the bottom of the car. This way, everything will be accessible for removal, cleaning, and re-installation. I'm nervous as a ***** in church about my 1st go at an all-aluminum engine, but, like I said, I'm going to have plenty of experienced help.
Good luck to you on your project.
I am fortunate enough to have a 2-post lift in my shop, along with some very good friends from my local F-Body car club. For my heads/cam/clutch/intake project, I'm dropping the engine/tranny/K-member out the bottom of the car. This way, everything will be accessible for removal, cleaning, and re-installation. I'm nervous as a ***** in church about my 1st go at an all-aluminum engine, but, like I said, I'm going to have plenty of experienced help.
Good luck to you on your project.
the point is that AFTER you install the studs the first time you will never need to clean the holes again, for future head replacments.
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