ls1 Timing Chain Tension question?
Best of luck my friend!


Thanks!
Also just wanted to add this is one of the easiest motors I have had the pleasure of working On, everything is set up to come off in one piece and very easily, dont have to remove much to get to the cam. Very sweet set up to work on............jt
The earlier LS1 pumps were semi-prone to failure and thus a revised design came out on the 2001 cars if I remember correctly. (someone correct me if I'm wrong)
Thus, most people (myself included) seem to go for the LS6 version (of which is the updated one) and thus have a little extra piece of mind. IMHO don't spend the extra dinero on a ported pump.
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the reason the older v8s where so tight and beefier is that apart from valvetrain duty the chain needed to drive the oil pump + the distribuitor, and hence the "need" for lack of slack, the ignition have to be fairly acurate...
the new design, the slack is OK even for the armonics, and there are less than 1deg total variance.
IF YOURE AT IT! go ahead an put an ls2 chain GMP# 12586482 (30ish bucks) clean up the sharp edges in your oil pump, put a couple of 0.040" stainless steel washers between the relieve spring and cap (allen key), also buy the chain dampner GMPT# 88958607 (quite pricy for a plastic part)
also drill the cam-sprockets retaining bolts for safety wire, RED locktite, Ive heard (read) fairly frequent that this bolts came loose.
with the z06-1 pumps, thera are THE SAME dont bother to hear BS from someone selling a "special" ls6 pump. for clarification PERHAPS later production pumps got more machining attention...
also when installing oil pump do not slap it, measure it.... with gerotor removed (pump disasembled) instal pump body to crank snout with two bolts finger tight, slide two gap feelers diametrally opossite of 0.002" Th. this WILL center pump body, tighten up the four bolts, then drench the gerotor in 90 oil (!) (this will insure sucking power when first starting) assemble the pump....
prelube your (new!) oil filter install it, put cheap 10W oil
START..... PRAY..... oil needle jumps..... GOOOOOOD JOB!!!!!!!
use the car easy for about two hours... drop oil...
new oil (favorite good quality) new filter.....
E-N-J-O-Y ! ! ! ! ! !
GOOD LUCK!
none of the oil pumps break but some of the early pumps would have the piston in the pressure relief valve stick open causing very low oil pressure. I would center the oil pump housing as described above if you do not the drive can wear on the housing which will wear off alumn shavings into your oil, not my idea of a good time, and can lead to the stuck relief valve.
In short you would probable not have any problems with just putting it all back in, but if I have my car apart to this level, I like to take the time to be sure that I will not be forced to do it again, not to mention that a failed timming chain is catastrophic even if it is low odds that it will break.
all of the stock timming chains are a little slack the only way to fix is to go to a double roller for $150.00, but it sure rolls nice, just like the SBC
.good luck
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