Which pushrods with TR224/224 cam?
Which pushrods with TR224/224 cam? Thunder racing has a few diff. pushrods available, which ones are best for a TR224/224 112 LSA cam? Car is a DD, never spin above 5500 RPMS. Going to go with LS2 timing chain, LS6 oil pump, stuck on which rods to go with.
Also are the Comp26918 Ovate springs a good choice for this application? I am sticking with the stock retainers, anything else needed like spring seats or valve stem seals or do I just need the new springs? TIA
Also are the Comp26918 Ovate springs a good choice for this application? I am sticking with the stock retainers, anything else needed like spring seats or valve stem seals or do I just need the new springs? TIA
Just put that cam in my GTO. Used stock length (7.4 in) hardened rods. If you are getting it from Thunder get one of their complete packages. Can't go wrong.
I used the 918 springs with stock retainers since I don't spin her up that high either.
I used the 918 springs with stock retainers since I don't spin her up that high either.
Thanks....what about the hardened seats and valve stem seals and all that other stuff they have listed, do I need any of that stuff? Or am I good with just the new springs and rods? Thanks
Just spoke with Sales Rep @ Thunder Racing and they were adament about getting titanium retainers. I explained that I don't spin above 5500 RPMS and then he said I am wasting my $$$ on this cam(TR224/224 112 LSA) I told him it was a DD and I have read reviews explaining that this is the perfect DD cam, and that it makes good power from 1800 on up. He said nope that's not correct, that the TR224/224 makes power from 2500-6600 and that I would not see teh full benefit from this cam without titanium retainers. I explained again that I was looking for a nice flat torque increase from 2000-4800RPMS, which is where I drive in the RPM range and he said well this is the wrong cam for you, you should be looking at a 214 or 216 cam. Is this correct???
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Comp 918s are perfect (unless you went to a 1.8 rocker), definitely 7.4" hardened pushrods, and Ti Retainers. You don't need the other stuff. With the money you save there get the Ti Retainers. They're about 50% lighter than the stockers, makes for a much more responsive valvetrain, even at lower rpms. You won't regret Ti Retainers.
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Originally Posted by hurley711
Just spoke with Sales Rep @ Thunder Racing and they were adament about getting titanium retainers. I explained that I don't spin above 5500 RPMS and then he said I am wasting my $$$ on this cam(TR224/224 112 LSA) I told him it was a DD and I have read reviews explaining that this is the perfect DD cam, and that it makes good power from 1800 on up. He said nope that's not correct, that the TR224/224 makes power from 2500-6600 and that I would not see teh full benefit from this cam without titanium retainers. I explained again that I was looking for a nice flat torque increase from 2000-4800RPMS, which is where I drive in the RPM range and he said well this is the wrong cam for you, you should be looking at a 214 or 216 cam. Is this correct???
Hmmm...interesting...
I also was under the impression that the tr224/224 112(or)114 LSA was the "standard" of great DDing cams...
I plan on getting a 112 LSA soon(ish)
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Verdad Gallardo Called again here is the breakdown of parts and price:
Hardened pushrods-$110
Comp 918 Springs--$180
VSR Titanium retainers(not listed on site)--$129...much better
Fred BEans LS6 oil pump-$71 & LS2 timing chain-$28
Do I need a ported LS6 pump or is a reg LS6 pump ok?
Hardened pushrods-$110
Comp 918 Springs--$180
VSR Titanium retainers(not listed on site)--$129...much better
Fred BEans LS6 oil pump-$71 & LS2 timing chain-$28
Do I need a ported LS6 pump or is a reg LS6 pump ok?
Yeah he is right. If it is an 01 you will have an LS6 pump already. Potential of jacking it up while changing it out is very high. (don't drop the tube if you decide to change it)
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From: BFE
To find the appropriate p-rod length (assuming you're cam only> no milling, valve change and with stock gasket), you will have to measure base circle in your new cam.
Base circle stock LS1(1.55) - Base circle new cam = XX
XX / 2 = the extra length needed on your p-rods
Exemple:
Stock base circle - New base circle = XX
1.55 - 1.45 = 0.10
> 0.10 / 2 = .050
7.40 + .050 = 7.45
So it is important you measure new base circle, in order to get proper preload on the lifters with the right (closest) p-rod length.
Otherwise, you will be light on the preload and this will cause noisy valvetrains and possible premature lifter wear.
This is with NON adjustable stock rockers, cam only swap.
You want to be the closest as possible to original preload setting (stock geometry and preload).
Base circle stock LS1(1.55) - Base circle new cam = XX
XX / 2 = the extra length needed on your p-rods
Exemple:
Stock base circle - New base circle = XX
1.55 - 1.45 = 0.10
> 0.10 / 2 = .050
7.40 + .050 = 7.45
So it is important you measure new base circle, in order to get proper preload on the lifters with the right (closest) p-rod length.
Otherwise, you will be light on the preload and this will cause noisy valvetrains and possible premature lifter wear.
This is with NON adjustable stock rockers, cam only swap.
You want to be the closest as possible to original preload setting (stock geometry and preload).
My car is a 2000 with 67xxx on the clock, should the pump be changed as good maintenance while in there? How many miles before the pumps need changing? I've read the LS6 pump is better then the LS1.
