Cam Install from Hell
Cam Install from Hell The cam install on my 99SS begain at 0700 this morning. It is now 11pm and my engine is apart with a broken bolt in the rocker stud for cylinder #8. I can't get the damn thing out to save my life. This is the 3rd broken bolt for the day. I think the 20 degree weather has somthing to do with it.
Highlights include a pretzeled 3 arm pulley puller; a broken bolt holding the cam gear to the cam; a pen magnet head that broke off in the pushrod bore, securing itself to the lifter. When I finally got that out the lifter dropped into the engine, but I saved it, just by a nats ***. Other highlights were the 3 runs to the parts house and $$$ on the credit card and two broken bolts trying to remove valve springs (1 removed, 1 stuck good).
Basically it's been on problem after another. I think I'm going to have to pull the Passenger side cylinder head to get that broken bolt out. It happened while using a valve spring compressor tool I got on the forum here. This was using a grade 10.9 bolt by the way. I also broke a grade 8.8 bolt in the rocker stud for cylinder #8, but I got it out with an easy out.
OK, ranting is over. My car is in my buddy's garage, I hope his wife is understanding....
Highlights include a pretzeled 3 arm pulley puller; a broken bolt holding the cam gear to the cam; a pen magnet head that broke off in the pushrod bore, securing itself to the lifter. When I finally got that out the lifter dropped into the engine, but I saved it, just by a nats ***. Other highlights were the 3 runs to the parts house and $$$ on the credit card and two broken bolts trying to remove valve springs (1 removed, 1 stuck good).
Basically it's been on problem after another. I think I'm going to have to pull the Passenger side cylinder head to get that broken bolt out. It happened while using a valve spring compressor tool I got on the forum here. This was using a grade 10.9 bolt by the way. I also broke a grade 8.8 bolt in the rocker stud for cylinder #8, but I got it out with an easy out.
OK, ranting is over. My car is in my buddy's garage, I hope his wife is understanding....
You mean to tell me that it isn't just something you can do in a few easy hours like some people have posted here? That absolutely shocks me. You need one of the guys who can do a cam swap in less time than it takes some people to change spark plugs.
Don't feel bad. It took me 2 days to swap out valve springs and rocker arms.
With patience you WILL prevail.
I have had some success using a punch and getting broken bolts out when there's room to swing a small hammer. Of course it requires the bolt not to be broken off domn in the hole.
Don't feel bad. It took me 2 days to swap out valve springs and rocker arms.
With patience you WILL prevail.
I have had some success using a punch and getting broken bolts out when there's room to swing a small hammer. Of course it requires the bolt not to be broken off domn in the hole.
Broke bolt in cam gear? Wow. Broke bolt in rocker stud hole? Using a compressor? What type of compressor? I made my own compressor like the Tims tool and I have always used one of my rocker bolts to compress the spring and never broke one. I have done my springs atleast 4 times now. It really is not under that much pressure to be honest. You need to try and make the hole in the compressor sit as close to inline as possible with the rocker hole so its not putting excess side pressure on the bolt.
Anyway, sorry for your bad luck. Good luck, sounds like you need it.
Anyway, sorry for your bad luck. Good luck, sounds like you need it.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by jason.sabovich
The cam install on my 99SS begain at 0700 this morning. It is now 11pm and my engine is apart with a broken bolt in the rocker stud for cylinder #8. I can't get the damn thing out to save my life. This is the 3rd broken bolt for the day. I think the 20 degree weather has somthing to do with it.
Highlights include a pretzeled 3 arm pulley puller; a broken bolt holding the cam gear to the cam; a pen magnet head that broke off in the pushrod bore, securing itself to the lifter. When I finally got that out the lifter dropped into the engine, but I saved it, just by a nats ***. Other highlights were the 3 runs to the parts house and $$$ on the credit card and two broken bolts trying to remove valve springs (1 removed, 1 stuck good).
Basically it's been on problem after another. I think I'm going to have to pull the Passenger side cylinder head to get that broken bolt out. It happened while using a valve spring compressor tool I got on the forum here. This was using a grade 10.9 bolt by the way. I also broke a grade 8.8 bolt in the rocker stud for cylinder #8, but I got it out with an easy out.
OK, ranting is over. My car is in my buddy's garage, I hope his wife is understanding....
Highlights include a pretzeled 3 arm pulley puller; a broken bolt holding the cam gear to the cam; a pen magnet head that broke off in the pushrod bore, securing itself to the lifter. When I finally got that out the lifter dropped into the engine, but I saved it, just by a nats ***. Other highlights were the 3 runs to the parts house and $$$ on the credit card and two broken bolts trying to remove valve springs (1 removed, 1 stuck good).
Basically it's been on problem after another. I think I'm going to have to pull the Passenger side cylinder head to get that broken bolt out. It happened while using a valve spring compressor tool I got on the forum here. This was using a grade 10.9 bolt by the way. I also broke a grade 8.8 bolt in the rocker stud for cylinder #8, but I got it out with an easy out.
OK, ranting is over. My car is in my buddy's garage, I hope his wife is understanding....
man, that really sucks. after hearing this, i am going to by the jrp cam tool like 90 from thunder racing to insure the lifters dont fall, and the 115$ spring compressor that does 2 springs at once, and bolts down the the head securely.
Trending Topics
I tried the punch on the broken bolt in #8 rocker stud, no luck as it's broken off flush. I'm going to get a 90 degree attachment for the drill so I can get an easy out started. If I could do it again I'd spring for the nice tool from Thunder (MORE tool).
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by 2 SSlow
man, that really sucks. after hearing this, i am going to by the jrp cam tool like 90 from thunder racing to insure the lifters dont fall, and the 115$ spring compressor that does 2 springs at once, and bolts down the the head securely.
Cost less than a buck.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,428
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
No offense, but maybe you should examine your technique. I can see breaking a bolt, but three!
With that being said, probably better off being unsaid, I feel your pain, but just hang in there! You'll get it sorted out. Good luck!
With that being said, probably better off being unsaid, I feel your pain, but just hang in there! You'll get it sorted out. Good luck!
12 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi
things happen for a reason, it be your fault or not. just keep trucking and take it, hopefully u have learned something from this. either way, just keep calm and keep plugging away. u will get it done and all forgotten when u hear that engine start 
fuerzaws6
fuerzaws6
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,907
Likes: 1
From: Bergen County, NJ
A couple of words of advice for all:
Use the 5/16 rod or brake line or JPR tool to hold up the lifters - the time taken to get that right is well worth it versus the alternative. I know many who do it just by spinning the cam, but why chance it?
If a bolt breaks - stop and use a different tool or method. The fact that one broke is generally not a fluke, it's your method or your tool.
Do not pull the pulley into place with the old bolt, use a threaded rod and nut and washer. The time taken here versus the alternative again - well worth it.
Use a torque wrench if you are not experienced enough to "feel" the right torque. Torque wrenches a fairly cheap and if you're doing your cam you will no doubt be doing something else down the line where the wrenches will be needed.
If you're threading a bolt and it gets stuck, stop. pull it out, try another bolt, clean the threads etc. Repairing broken bolts and ruined threads is very frustrating and time consuming. Take the extra time to be certain it is going in straight and true. A small trick is start all your bolts by turning them backwards until you feel the first thread drop in, then start it. Generally if you can feel the first thread start, you're going in straight.
Use the 5/16 rod or brake line or JPR tool to hold up the lifters - the time taken to get that right is well worth it versus the alternative. I know many who do it just by spinning the cam, but why chance it?
If a bolt breaks - stop and use a different tool or method. The fact that one broke is generally not a fluke, it's your method or your tool.
Do not pull the pulley into place with the old bolt, use a threaded rod and nut and washer. The time taken here versus the alternative again - well worth it.
Use a torque wrench if you are not experienced enough to "feel" the right torque. Torque wrenches a fairly cheap and if you're doing your cam you will no doubt be doing something else down the line where the wrenches will be needed.
If you're threading a bolt and it gets stuck, stop. pull it out, try another bolt, clean the threads etc. Repairing broken bolts and ruined threads is very frustrating and time consuming. Take the extra time to be certain it is going in straight and true. A small trick is start all your bolts by turning them backwards until you feel the first thread drop in, then start it. Generally if you can feel the first thread start, you're going in straight.
Originally Posted by Full-Force
Dude, please dont pay 90 bucks for a couple pieces of rod. Get a 5/16 wooden dowel rod 4' long and cut it in half. Slide those in the holes and no worries.
Cost less than a buck.
Cost less than a buck.
Doug
please dont try and "feel" how much to torque down bolts,just buy a torque wrench and assemble everything with security and comfort.I cant stress enough to everyone how UNforgiving aluminum threads are,It just seems like to many people have to learn the hard way.Im not sure if you were using a torque wrench but i have to say this for everyone reading this post.Just take your time and if your patience gets to you then walk away and come back to it later,you might be suprised at how smooth things can go when your relaxed.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 0
From: Northern Va
I've successfully done both heads and cam. I was extemely nervous before beginning each project. I did a lot of reading before I started and bought all the best tools. I went very slow and took long breaks- and even overnight breaks. I even used 2 different torque wrenches to check torque. Aluminum is scary. I wanted to get a feel for how hard (or easy) it would be to strip threads so I used my old heads to test. It was amazing how easy it was to strip the threads for the exhaust bolts. Some people will tell you how 'easy' is is to do these projects- but it's only easy if everything goes perfect.
