I'm thinking specs like the GM Hot Cam about an average cam,

but want the most streetable (closest to stock) drivabilty.

 

There are alot better cams out there for the money, you could go with a Cheatr cam from thunder, it idles like stock but makes GOOD power, then you could do a 3k converter, although you'd get better results from a higher stall converter. If tuned properly a TR224 and a 3500 stall will have relatively good street manners

 

A TC on a stock car will prove to be very beneficial. I wouldn't even think about getting a cam without a stall.

 

What he said.

 

Another vote for a converter first. You won't believe the difference.

 

FYI:

He has already asked this question and been give more than one page of responses. Everybody has told him to get a converter before a cam but he does not want to listen, or simply wants to start an argument.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-owners-newbie-tech/452171-what-s-largest-cam-upgrade-stock-torque-converter.html

 

if you are not getting a TC and don't have 3.73s, you need bottom end tq to help the launch and you need to get it without alot of overlap so that you can keep your idle speed low enough to not constantly fight the brakes every time you come to a stop. My suggestions are:
216/216 112 109
212/218 112 110

Both have early IVC's to help put the power down low and they can be tuned to idle at 750, maybe as low as 700 with the help of a wideband and patience.

 

Other than the rest of us bantering on about getting a converter first, that is about the best advice you are going to get.

 

216/216/112 whats the 109#

this is close to the size of cam I may get 210/218/531/531/114 crane says no TC or tuning required I'll probably get a small 2.5ooK 2.200K TC anyway.

see I want my powertband to start at idel to 6K I don't want to wait till 3K RPM to get into the powerband I'm thinking thats why I want a low shall speed. plus I don't want the idel set real high like most cammed cars are set 700RPM and higher, that would be hard on my foot at stoplights.

 

You've been given some solid advise, but seem to be ignoring it. After you've installed your mismatched parts, you'll want to upgrade in the future. I predict that you'll feel that the 2200 stall feels too much like stock and that the cam you've chosen doesn't have the top-end charge that it should.

What we've been trying to do (on both threads) is to spare you the misery and expense of having to do things twice. You will want to get a minimum of a 2800-3000 stall converter (trust me on this, I've had 15 different ones in LS1s) and you'll want some good tuning with whatever cam you choose. See, even a small cam will send random mulitple misfire codes to your pcm and it will constantly be unlocking your converter (even if it's stock). A cammed car can be a pain in the butt or a joy to drive depending on how well it's tuned. Listen to those who've been where you are now and have learned from the mistakes they've made. We're all trying to save you some grief down the road.

Remember, speed shops want to sell you what THEY stock, not necessarily what's best for your application. This board has more real world experience than you can even imagine. Listen and learn.

 

I dont know why people get so bent out of shape about a stall converter. After you drive it for a week you wont even notice it. And in a couple of months, wish you had gone bigger.

Do yourself a favor and get it right the first time. [U]

 

once you are will to get even a 2600 stall, all sorts new possibilities open up. Like Patrick said, a good 2800 - 3000 is extremely drivable, adds a boat load of performance, and allows for 800 - 825 rpm idle. That then allows you to pick a cam with midrange power that will blow the doors off that Crane cam.

 

This right here shows that you don't know a darn thing about what you are doing. You said you've done how many YEARS of research?

Have you read the cam guide sticky? Or searched? If so, how do you not know that that is the LSA?

 

I hope you know that the 112 is the LSA and the 109 is the ICL (intake centerline).

 

Get the converter, and get a big one I have a TCI SSF 3500 and Im dying for something larger. I vote for the Yank PT4000, go big or go home...

 

Have fun installing that cam with a stock, or near stock stall. When you go to put the tranny in D, you're in for a pleasant surprise(bang!).

 

My 218/222 drives great with the stock converter, I done cam first because Im gonna do trans and stall at the same time and dont need a medium to large cam- just didnt want the stock one . If my tranny had less miles on it(124k) I would have done the 3500 first thing

 

Also

 

my tci 3000 streetfighter stall feels like stock.
anyways, you will get better gains by doing a stall compared to a cam.
i dropped almost .6 tenths from the t/c upgrade.

 

My bad. I didn't even read the entire thing, just looked at his question where all he listed were durations and then what turns out to be the ICL.