MiaSSmaro98

iTrader: (9)

hey guys is it true that ls1 have sleves in them?if it is true wat can u do to replace it if u want big hp?wat are some good companys if so?

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

yes......... Darton

jrp

iTrader: (16)

whats the application?

MiaSSmaro98

iTrader: (9)

wow $1300 for the darton sleeves?any cheaper?or can u use the stock ones?

Demon SS

iTrader: (3)

the LS1 block is sleeved from the factory, but can only be honed about .010 over with the factory sleeves.
if you have darton sleeves installed you can do up to a 454ci, but it is expensive to have done. sleeves will run you about 1200-1300, machine work close to the same, plus you need a block to send them, then you have shipping. figure approx $3000 for a sleeved block once you add it all up. also if planning to buy a block for sleeving DO NOT buy an LS6 block, buy an LS1 block
now if you want to convert over to the LS2 setup they are easier and less expensive to sleeve.

MiaSSmaro98

iTrader: (9)

but wat do u honed the sleeve or the cylinder walls?there isnt no sleeve that can replace the oem one without spending a fortune?

kenp

iTrader: (9)

You are correct that there is not a simple inexpensive way to resleeve the LS1/LS6.

The steel cylinder sleeves are cast in the block and are not intended to be replaced.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

hello, whats the ******* application?!

THE_SUPRA

dont all aluminum blocks have steel sleeves?

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

No block uses steel sleeves. Steel would make a poor ring surface to ride on.

Factory sleeves are usually made from gray cast iron for reasons of cost. Some have used or still use either a metal matrix composite wall (Honda) or nickle silicon carbide (nikasil) - BMW, Ferrari, etc.

Darton sleeves are made from high strength ductile iron. The material is expensive and machining it is not easy.

There is no inexpensive solution to sleeving the LS1 and LS6 blocks. Replacement dry liners have a tendency to fail in these blocks. That is the reason Darton designed the wet liner - MID sleeve. This design eliminates problems with sleeves dropping or leaking. But the sleeves and installation are not low cost by any means.

The LS2 block however can be dry sleeved. It is made differently from the earlier blocks. I had Darton make LS2 specific replacement ductile iron sleeves that will take the LS2 to 4.125" + bore size.

If you are just looking to go to a 4" bore without high boost or heavy nitrous, I recommend you just go out and buy yourself a new LS2 block from Scoggin Dickey. That would be the least expensive solution.

Steve

MiaSSmaro98

iTrader: (9)

the application will be street/strip 89 camaro w/ an ls1 in it on boost around 15 psi making 600 plus rwhp.so the stock sleeves cant be pull out and replace?u can just clean them up and install new pistons i guess right?wat about this sleeve http://www.melling.com/select/cylind...es_ls1_ls6.asp
is it good it lloks like a dry one i guess?

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

Is there a reason why your sleeving? Are you repairing a damaged sleeve or are you looking for more cubes? If the stock sleeve is damaged, it will be easier, cheaper, and more reliable to buy you a new/used block. If you just need honing, just hone the block up to .010" and go with it.

If you are looking for a aftermarket solution for more cubes, then Steve at RED is the man to talk to. He posted on your first page. He is the co-inventor of these Darton sleeves, and really the only one I trust to do any type of sleeving work. The LS-1 MID (wet) sleeves are rather expensive and require speacial parts to work, but when used correctly, can handle a boat load of power. For the power your looking at, I'd use a LS-2 dry sleeve. They have 2 versions. One can accomodate up to a 4.150" safe bore and the other (LS7 sleeve) which can go to 4.190" I believe. The LS7 sleeve can be used in the LS2 block. The cheapest way without sleeving is to use the Stock LS2 block like steve mentioned. They have a 4" bore from the factory, and I've seen some bore them to 4.030", but I wouldn't.

Sleeving these motors is a tedious task and most machine shops don't have the tools to do the job correctlly. In most cases, you end up with a dropped sleeve and end up wasting more money then you would have if you would have done it correctlly the first time. If you need sleeving, talk to Steve about your best option, but the stuff I posted above should set you in the right direction

jrp

iTrader: (16)

if your not looking for added cubic displacement the most cost effect route would be an 6.0 iron block. if your worried about the added weight it can be offset by a tubular k-member and some A-arms.

MiaSSmaro98

iTrader: (9)

hmmn but to put the meling sleeves wat is needed wat is steves number

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

There are alot of saftey features that the Darton sleeves use that ensure that you don't have a dropped sleeve. On another note, the melling sleeve is a dry sleeve for the LS-1. Dry sleeving a LS1 isn't the best idea due to the location of the water passages. The LS2 passages are in better locations, allowing for a good base for the dry sleeve. To install any sleeve, i would reccomend the same process that steve uses. It requires a wet cnc machine, and for the whole block to be done the same day, along with the temperature to remain constant. It isn't a job that I would trust my local machine shop to do. Steve can be contacted through here: http://www.raceenginedevelopment.com...4927/index.htm

MiaSSmaro98

iTrader: (9)

yeah i think i may go with the ls1 iron block were can i see one?i dont want more cubes i wanna stay 346c.in.i saw the c5r block but 7k for one is way to expensive.

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

The iron block has a bigger bore, so you will be at 360 ci's.

LS6

I'm really question about the melling sleeve...

if can be isnatlled on LS1 and making a bore of 4.15" it would be great...

any feed back please for some one has used before the melling sleeve...