What do you think of this one?
03-09-2006, 02:13 PM
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What do you think of this one? Still talking to the seller but assuming its a comp cam
224 / 228 .570 .560 114 +4
The application is a a4 street Na engine that im putting in my 92z28. The car is going to have stock manifolds on it till I get longtubes which may be a while. Is this a decent cam? Ive read the 224/228 thread and it seems that people are getting good power from it. I wanna know if the advance on it (+4) is too much or if this is a normal amount. I suppose I could set it a tooth back to compensate if it is too much. Thanks.
224 / 228 .570 .560 114 +4
The application is a a4 street Na engine that im putting in my 92z28. The car is going to have stock manifolds on it till I get longtubes which may be a while. Is this a decent cam? Ive read the 224/228 thread and it seems that people are getting good power from it. I wanna know if the advance on it (+4) is too much or if this is a normal amount. I suppose I could set it a tooth back to compensate if it is too much. Thanks.
03-09-2006, 02:24 PM
#2
11 Second Club
Let's look at the big picture.
What torque converter? What tires? What gears? Other bolt ons?
The rule of thumb is converter and headers before cam, and that is the rule for good reason.
What torque converter? What tires? What gears? Other bolt ons?
The rule of thumb is converter and headers before cam, and that is the rule for good reason.
03-09-2006, 03:11 PM
#4
11 Second Club
Originally Posted by 92zcamaroperson
i was hoping that I could at least get away with the manifolds and cam till I fabricate the headers
You could get away with it, but I wouldn't recommend it.
What converter? Will you get it tuned? An untuned cam isn't going to run very well.
Rules of thumb are converter, headers and all other simple power producing bolt ons before cam, proper tune after the cam. Follow them and you should be much happier with the results.
03-09-2006, 03:30 PM
#5
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Id just rather put the cam in now while the engine is out of the car. That cam isnt too big so I would think it would run for a month or 2 while I piece the headers together. This is my dd. Would you say it would just be best to leave the stock cam till I get the headers?
03-09-2006, 03:50 PM
#6
TECH Resident
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Boston
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i think you will be fine, you just wont get the most out of the car untill you get the headers.....by the way what you doing for the headers, modifying SBC or stainless works.
Justin
Justin
Trending Topics
03-09-2006, 04:19 PM
#9
TECH Resident
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Boston
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Meh it was ok, quality looks good, it just didnt fit all to well....Dont know if it was my car or what but some of the bolt holes didnt line up when i tried to put it in. But now that its in its just fine.
Have drivin 15k on the set up and hit plenty of huge pot holes and it seems to handle them just fine.
Have drivin 15k on the set up and hit plenty of huge pot holes and it seems to handle them just fine.
03-09-2006, 04:37 PM
#11
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
what makes a cam "need" a converter? The power band should start at about 2000 or 2200 and for a street car that should be ok. Not looking for any huge launches. Thats my logic anyways.
03-09-2006, 11:00 PM
#12
11 Second Club
Originally Posted by 92zcamaroperson
modifying some sbc longtubes. I just cant stand the thought of paying over a grand for headers...
I wouldn't even think of paying over a grand for headers either.
My Jet-Hot longtubes with their ceramic coating AND true duals dumped at the axle were barely over $1k combined.
Why would you spend $1k on headers, exactly? You can get them for <$400.
Originally Posted by 92zcamaroperson
what makes a cam "need" a converter? The power band should start at about 2000 or 2200 and for a street car that should be ok. Not looking for any huge launches. Thats my logic anyways.
Get yourself a converter ASAP, and go at least 3500.
03-09-2006, 11:04 PM
#13
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: TEXASS
Posts: 3,202
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 92zcamaroperson
Id just rather put the cam in now while the engine is out of the car. That cam isnt too big so I would think it would run for a month or 2 while I piece the headers together. This is my dd. Would you say it would just be best to leave the stock cam till I get the headers?
03-09-2006, 11:46 PM
#14
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
and a 3500 stall is ok for a daily driver? I usually hang out with a group of old guys who did all this back in the day and even some of the younger ones who are trained technicians and engine builders. When I mention 3500 their eyes get real big. Am I right in thinking that the bigger the stall the more it lets the motor spin which creates a lot of friction which causes a lot of heat and stress for the trans? How are so many people doing just fine then?
03-10-2006, 12:08 AM
#17
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: TEXASS
Posts: 3,202
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 92zcamaroperson
and a 3500 stall is ok for a daily driver? I usually hang out with a group of old guys who did all this back in the day and even some of the younger ones who are trained technicians and engine builders. When I mention 3500 their eyes get real big. Am I right in thinking that the bigger the stall the more it lets the motor spin which creates a lot of friction which causes a lot of heat and stress for the trans? How are so many people doing just fine then?
03-10-2006, 12:24 AM
#18
TECH Resident
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Boston
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[QUOTE=blkZ28spt]I wouldn't even think of paying over a grand for headers either.
My Jet-Hot longtubes with their ceramic coating AND true duals dumped at the axle were barely over $1k combined.
Why would you spend $1k on headers, exactly? You can get them for <$400.
Well first of all they are not 1k, they are 750 and cost just over 1000 with a ory, and like 1300 with cats. And they are the only production header that is made for the 3rd gen with a LS1, that or you have to fabercate some hooker long tubes for a SBC with LS1 flanges. They arn't priced any higher then your 4th gen headers(qtp, koooks, etc), unless you're talking about the non stainless type.
Justin
My Jet-Hot longtubes with their ceramic coating AND true duals dumped at the axle were barely over $1k combined.
Why would you spend $1k on headers, exactly? You can get them for <$400.
Well first of all they are not 1k, they are 750 and cost just over 1000 with a ory, and like 1300 with cats. And they are the only production header that is made for the 3rd gen with a LS1, that or you have to fabercate some hooker long tubes for a SBC with LS1 flanges. They arn't priced any higher then your 4th gen headers(qtp, koooks, etc), unless you're talking about the non stainless type.
Justin
03-10-2006, 05:20 PM
#20
11 Second Club
Sorry on the headers, I forget this is going into a '92.
On the converter, SEARCH. Yes, there are PLENTY of people doing just fine with high stall speed converters. 3500 is what most people will tell you is the absolute minimum you should go with. I daily drive a 4k stall.
On the converter, SEARCH. Yes, there are PLENTY of people doing just fine with high stall speed converters. 3500 is what most people will tell you is the absolute minimum you should go with. I daily drive a 4k stall.