Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Cam checklist - did i get everything? Also a few ?'s

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 19, 2006 | 08:47 PM
  #1  
hazard2k's Avatar
Thread Starter
Launching!
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
Default Cam checklist - did i get everything? Also a few ?'s

I have a TR224 112lsa cam I am going to install and I am about to order everything else i will need to install it. Can you check over the list and make sure im not looking over anything?

Comp 918 springs
TSP ported LS6 oil pump
LS2 timing chain
7.400" chromoly pushrods
Gaskets and balancer bolt.

I also have a few questions when i go to install it.
1. I have read that i may need longer than stock pushrods with this cam. Is this true? I plan on using the stock rockers.

2. I plan on using the 5/16 dowel method. Whats the proper procedure for this? Should i grind down the side of the dowels or not? How long do they have to be?

3. With my ASP underdrive pulley (came on the car), is the tightening sequence for the bolt the same as stock? Or is it different because its aftermarket?

Thanks a lot guys, Jeff
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2006 | 09:55 PM
  #2  
orangeapeel's Avatar
ЯєŧąяĐ Єl¡m¡иąŧøя ™
iTrader: (18)
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,083
Likes: 4
From: Justin, TX
Default

Nice avatar btw!

Anyway. this is the easiest way I can sum it up. Looks like you got all the parts you will need. It would be up to you to include some titanium retainers. that would just give you about 200-300 more RPMS till valve float. I don't think that you are going to be having that problem with this cam though.

1. Stock length will work, but you might be able to get away with a 7.425 as far as longer goes.

2. Stock rockers! good plan. If anything get the stockers upgraded in the future. Otherwise they will hold up pretty good.

3. I used the magnet and the dowel method several times each. Dowel is much easier and I prefer it. 24" or 22" I can't remember off the top of my head, but make sure that you spin the cam over pretty fast for ateast 1 turn to sling the lifters "headward".

And with your ASP....I have no idea. you might want to check with them directly, or maybe someone here will post up the proper way. I am guessing that it is 10% underdrive? Or you might not know since it came on the car.

Hope this helps some!
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2006 | 10:45 PM
  #3  
hazard2k's Avatar
Thread Starter
Launching!
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
Default

Originally Posted by orangeapeel
Nice avatar btw!

Anyway. this is the easiest way I can sum it up. Looks like you got all the parts you will need. It would be up to you to include some titanium retainers. that would just give you about 200-300 more RPMS till valve float. I don't think that you are going to be having that problem with this cam though.

1. Stock length will work, but you might be able to get away with a 7.425 as far as longer goes.

2. Stock rockers! good plan. If anything get the stockers upgraded in the future. Otherwise they will hold up pretty good.

3. I used the magnet and the dowel method several times each. Dowel is much easier and I prefer it. 24" or 22" I can't remember off the top of my head, but make sure that you spin the cam over pretty fast for ateast 1 turn to sling the lifters "headward".

And with your ASP....I have no idea. you might want to check with them directly, or maybe someone here will post up the proper way. I am guessing that it is 10% underdrive? Or you might not know since it came on the car.

Hope this helps some!

Thanks for the reply.. (nice halo's BTW)
I got a couple more follow up questions for ya.

I plan on re-using the stock retainers to keep the cost down as opposed to the Ti ones, but should i replace the locks, or are the stock ones fine to be re-used also?

What do you mean i might be able to get away with the longer pushrods? Are the stock rockers adjustable? I was under the assumption they were non-adjutable. Will i have more noise with the shorter rods?

Also, what is involved in upgrading the stock rockers? New bearings in there so they dont fall out? Is this something i can do myself, or do they have to be sent out?

Thanks, Jeff
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2006 | 11:08 PM
  #4  
joshp14's Avatar
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,108
Likes: 0
From: WDM, Iowa
Default

Originally Posted by hazard2k
Thanks for the reply.. (nice halo's BTW)
I got a couple more follow up questions for ya.

I plan on re-using the stock retainers to keep the cost down as opposed to the Ti ones, but should i replace the locks, or are the stock ones fine to be re-used also?

What do you mean i might be able to get away with the longer pushrods? Are the stock rockers adjustable? I was under the assumption they were non-adjutable. Will i have more noise with the shorter rods?

Also, what is involved in upgrading the stock rockers? New bearings in there so they dont fall out? Is this something i can do myself, or do they have to be sent out?

Thanks, Jeff
You can reuse the stock locks, might want to grab a few extra from GM just incase you lose one on the floor or something. Usually with a new camshaft, the base circle of the cam lobe is smaller, thus creating the need for longer pushrods to keep your lifter preload the same. If the base circle is 1.45, I would go with the 7.425 pushrod as it will keep your valvetrain quieter and lifter preload approx. the same.

If i remember correctly, you can send out the stock rockers and have them upgraded, I cant remember what they do, but i think it involves installing clips to prevent the needle bearings from falling out. Also, the stockers arent adjustable.
Reply




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:24 PM.