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Any tips for rod bolt install?

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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 04:26 PM
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I have a tip! Don't ask Lithium how he did it. He can probably tell you what you don't want to do though.
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 04:26 PM
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Default Any tips for rod bolt install?

Ive searched and there isnt a whole lot of info about this subject. I want to drop the kmember and lower the the pan so that I can change out the rod bolts with the engine still in the car. Does anyone have any tips or techniques they have used that makes this process a little easier?
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
I have a tip! Don't ask Lithium how he did it. He can probably tell you what you don't want to do though.
Well **** I can do it no problem now that I know what I did wrong! ******* Katech
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by fastGBcamaro
Ive searched and there isnt a whole lot of info about this subject. I want to drop the kmember and lower the the pan so that I can change out the rod bolts with the engine still in the car. Does anyone have any tips or techniques they have used that makes this process a little easier?
Take out the motor mount bolts.

Drop the K member by taking out those 6 bolts. I had to remove some other bolts as well for the oil pan to slide out.

Once the k member is as low as it will go you should be able to wiggle the pan out...it could also just drop out so be careful. I had to pry the k member down a hair more for the pan to slide out...also had to pry it to get the ****** back in.

Once in remove the pickup tube and that tray covering the crank.

Then going one at a time change the rod bolts. Now you will need to take out the ferrules that are on the end of the bolts. To do this leave the rod bolt threaded in a bit then pull down. It should come out with the bolt. This is if you are using the Katechs as well.

Just go one at a time and torque each bolt down to 50 lbs while using some motor oil on the bolts.

Rest is reverse.

There are some threads with a write up already floating around...I know there have been a few like this lately in the Internal section.

Good luck and take you time! ITS POSSIBLE TO DO, I had no problems with clearence or anything getting in the way. Just be prepared to rotate the crank so that the bolts are facing down...I did a lot of rotating during the install.

Last edited by Lithium; Mar 29, 2006 at 06:37 PM.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 12:15 PM
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How did you hold the motor up during the time the K member was removed?
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 03:16 PM
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Cherry picker!
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 04:34 PM
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Also a good idea to slide a feeler gauge along side the rod cap so you don't put pressure on the bearing when you are torquing the cap down.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
How did you hold the motor up during the time the K member was removed?
Forgot that ****... I used a jack under the tranny. I found a good piece of wood to place on top of the jack so that it didnt **** up the tranny or have all the pressure on one point of it. Worked like a charm!

You can also jack it up at the crank snout...I would never try that though.
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Old Mar 29, 2006 | 06:35 PM
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I'm doing mine in the next 2 weeks....I cant wait

Thanks for the tips Lithium.
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