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Any write ups on Rod Bolt swap?

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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 09:41 PM
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Default Any write ups on Rod Bolt swap?

Just wanted to see if there was anything special I need to do? I did a search and did not find much except a few but would like more input from those who have done this as far as torque specs? I am doing a MS3 cam swap and want to make sure she holds together at 6900 rpm!!!

Dan
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 09:54 PM
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Wow deja vu....Ummmmmm just dont leave the ferrules in!!!!!! trust me.

If you go Katech which you should even though they mention nothing about removing the ferrules on the directions...its just one at a time then 50 lb ft.
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Lithium
Wow deja vu....Ummmmmm just dont leave the ferrules in!!!!!! trust me.

If you go Katech which you should even though they mention nothing about removing the ferrules on the directions...its just one at a time then 50 lb ft.

Yeah I have read about your issue, that really sucks

Dan
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 10:09 PM
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This is my near future, too. I'm going to do it with the head/cam/intake swap. At least I won't have to worry about dropping anything in the oil pan
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 10:11 PM
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Very true! I cleaned a lot of **** out of my pan when I had it off. I was pretty surprised. But it can be done easily with the engine still in the car.
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 10:28 PM
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Just do it one bolt at a time and under no circumstances remove a cap, even for curiosity.
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 10:50 PM
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The cap? you talking about the ferrules (sp)?
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 10:58 PM
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I thought you were doing the TRex?

Anyway, how hard is it to get the oil pan out? Does the engine have to be lifted up? If so, how much?
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Lithium
The cap? you talking about the ferrules (sp)?
I think he's talking about the rod cap. If you remove that you will mess up the bearing.
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 11:23 PM
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go with new rod botls... i didn't and i lost a motor because i had a bolt fail...

for the other question of pulling the pan with the motor still in car-
i did this today actually. heres my method - im sure there is an easier way feel to let me know but here it is:
pull motor mounts
unbolt the trannie and k member, let the trannie sag down a little.
i had one jack on the front of the motor and one on the back. i jacked both jack up as high as the motor would go, and the pan came out pretty easily.
its not the most fun job, but you know......
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by dirty2kTA
go with new rod botls... i didn't and i lost a motor because i had a bolt fail...

for the other question of pulling the pan with the motor still in car-
i did this today actually. heres my method - im sure there is an easier way feel to let me know but here it is:
pull motor mounts
unbolt the trannie and k member, let the trannie sag down a little.
i had one jack on the front of the motor and one on the back. i jacked both jack up as high as the motor would go, and the pan came out pretty easily.
its not the most fun job, but you know......
True. It sucked but its possible. I had the jack under the tranny and just cranked it up while the k member was dropped.
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 99ssleeper
I thought you were doing the TRex?

Anyway, how hard is it to get the oil pan out? Does the engine have to be lifted up? If so, how much?
I was going to go with the TRex but i want to spray also, so I decided to go with the MS3

Dan
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 09:29 AM
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I'm also doing ARP rod bolts during my cam swap. I heard you have to drop the k-member to get the pan out. Is this true??? There has to be a write up on this.
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 09:45 AM
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Default no writeup

I have searched a lot on this and I have not been able to find anything more than a description that says support the motor either from the top or the trans. Then drop the k-member. Sounds easy enough until you get under the car. I have done a few cam swaps in my car and this time I am swapping out the rod bolts to. I dont even know where to start if I was to drop the k-member, there is so much s$%t right there that a writeup with some pictures would be great for us newbie mechanics. To tell ya the truth I would be willing to send a few bucks to anyone that would create a good writeup, like jmx's cam install writeup.
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 11:26 AM
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i would be willing to give a write up a shot... let me know if want me to post it in this tread or start i new one.. i have been workin on ls1s about two years on my own- my knowledge comes from personal experiance, not a school, maybe tech might be able to do a little better.. i will go into great detail than i previously did. just let me where you want...
btw where do you want the write to start from - with the motor complete assembled and in the car????
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 11:37 AM
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ya complete..right off the street
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by dirty2kTA
i would be willing to give a write up a shot... let me know if want me to post it in this tread or start i new one.. i have been workin on ls1s about two years on my own- my knowledge comes from personal experiance, not a school, maybe tech might be able to do a little better.. i will go into great detail than i previously did. just let me where you want...
btw where do you want the write to start from - with the motor complete assembled and in the car????
It would be great if you started a thread on this!! And yes complete and assembled in the car.

dan
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 03:59 PM
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ok its there. check it out and let me know if i need to add or change anything.
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 10:54 PM
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i gotta do this very soon so somebody please help!
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BIG_MIKE2005
I'm also doing ARP rod bolts during my cam swap. I heard you have to drop the k-member to get the pan out. Is this true??? There has to be a write up on this.
Are the arp "cracked rod" rod bolts a direct swap or is resizing needed?
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