Installing my ASP pulley,I used threaded rod to start the pulley on the crank

I then used the old bolt to fully seat the pulley and torqued it to 240 ft/lbs.

Then I removed the old bolt and installed my new G.M. bolt and torqued to 37 ft/lbs.

Heres the problem...you are supposed to rotate the bolt another 140 degrees.

I got mine to move about 45 degrees.

It will not move.

I checked the torque with my torque wrench and it is greater than 250 lbs( thats the highest my wrench goes)

What do you think I should do?

I am scared of breaking it.

Any ideas???

 

Dont worry about it, no one can ever get 140 degrees out of it...I just installed my ASP last night and I torqued to 37 ft/ibs like you, then I put a pipe on the end of my breake bar and cranked her down...I maybe got 90-100 degrees out of it before I stopped. I had it in 4th gear and had someone in the car on the brakes so the car wouldnt move. I wouldnt worry one bit about it.

 

if the pulley looks seated, lines up with all the accessories, and you used a new bolt, you should be fine.

 

I agree, if it is good and tight, I would not mess with it, If you break it off, wew your in a world of hurt.

 

Well, you followed the procedure to the letter.

That's why I'm replacing all of the OEM TTY, one-time-use-only fasteners that I can, when I put my engine back together. The more I read about those bolts, the more I dislike them. GM claims that TTY provides a more accurate method of determining bolt stretch, and, therefore, clamping force, than simply torquing fasteners. You can keep 'em.

I bought ARP header studs, ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs, and ARP main studs for my engine. If there is an aftermarket balancer bolt that isn't TTY, I'll buy that, too.

I skipped college, and went to trade school, where I was trained as a machinist. I don't care what it is I happen to be working on, but there are few things I dislike more than drilling & tapping aluminum, and torquing steel fasteners into tapped, aluminum holes. Even for an experienced person, stripping the threads in hole tapped in aluminum is not overly-hard to do. That is why I ALWAYS use a little dab of Never Sieze on steel fasteners going into aluminum holes.

 

There is no way 45 degrees past 37 ft lbs is over 250 ft lbs. On over 40 cam installs, I've never NOT turned one 140 degrees. Don't be surprised if your bolt loosens and your pulley walks off.

 

Once the pulley stops moving on the crank snout which happens when it bucks up against the oil pump/cam drive sprocket the torque value is going to suddenly skyrocket because the pulley is fully home. There is no gasket or anything else in there to compress so the torque goes up real fast. I don't know what the formula is to convert degrees of rotation into lb/ft of torque, but it goes up pretty quick because the only thing you've got at that point it bolt stretch and stretching a 16mm bolt ain't that easy. By the way the Never Sieze idea is a good one especially on dissimilar metals.

 

I agree...thats why I am a little concerned.

I may get a new bolt and try it again.

I am not sure about the pulley hitting the oil pump though.

That doesn't sound like a smart idea.

 

Get yourself a 4' cheater pipe, slide it over the end of your 1/2" breaker-bar, and torque it another 60+ degrees.

 

Can I try to go further even though there is red locktite under the head of the bolt???

 

Make it an ARP and be done with it.

The GM Fastener feels like rubber compared to the quality ARP fastener. I think there was some cost savings involved in these torque to yeild stock fasteners. Take the GM bolts out ONCE and the higher quality ARP stuff almost pays for itself.....end of story. Buy the higher quality fasteners and never worry....and know that you can use them again.

Tony M.

 

Just tried that ...it will not move.

Breaker bar had a nice bow in it.

I think I am just going to go with it for now,and keep an eye on it.

Who knows I could have a problem on start up and have to remove it again anyway.