Inspecting 6 liter short block
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From: East of Dallas
Inspecting 6 liter short block I have a 6 liter short block in my garage. I'd like know exacty what to look for to see if it needs some reconditioning before being installed. It is supposed to have very low miles, and it looks like it. Here is what I know:
Clean bores, no rust. Crank turns over easily by hand. I can feel nothing abnormal on the cylinder walls. Oil is very clean. Very little carbon build up on the pistons (you can see metal on the piston tops). Heads were pulled and are near mint (sent off as cores).
I haven't pulled the oil pan yet because its still crated. When I get it out, what should I be looking for to verify that its a sound motor? Should I pull off each of the mains and inspect the bearings? Same for rods? What am I looking for?
If its sound, I'll install ARP rod bolts and get it ready to run. If I find something wrong, I'll have to make some decisions.
Thanks for the help.
Richard
Clean bores, no rust. Crank turns over easily by hand. I can feel nothing abnormal on the cylinder walls. Oil is very clean. Very little carbon build up on the pistons (you can see metal on the piston tops). Heads were pulled and are near mint (sent off as cores).
I haven't pulled the oil pan yet because its still crated. When I get it out, what should I be looking for to verify that its a sound motor? Should I pull off each of the mains and inspect the bearings? Same for rods? What am I looking for?
If its sound, I'll install ARP rod bolts and get it ready to run. If I find something wrong, I'll have to make some decisions.
Thanks for the help.
Richard
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Hartsdale, NY
Re: Inspecting 6 liter short block Can't answer this one but why did you buy a whole engine from a doner SUV (???) are you going to transplant it into an F-body?
I thought most people who install iron-block engines for our cars would be machining the block for installation of a new rotating assembly (e.g., stroker crank, longer rods, new pistons etc.)
A new factory iron block 6 liter is only $650 - right? do you think it is more cost effective to start with a used engine? Why?
I thought most people who install iron-block engines for our cars would be machining the block for installation of a new rotating assembly (e.g., stroker crank, longer rods, new pistons etc.)
A new factory iron block 6 liter is only $650 - right? do you think it is more cost effective to start with a used engine? Why?
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From: East of Dallas
Re: Inspecting 6 liter short block This is going into my truck. I have a high mileage 5.3L that knocks. I'd like it to be an almost direct replacement. I'd gain 40 cubic inches, no extra weight, and lower miles than my current iron block 5.3 motor. Plus, I can upgrade to ARP rod bolts, maybe new bearings and a few other misc things before I install it.
Since its complete, I can have everything ready to go before I pull my existing motor.
Since its complete, I can have everything ready to go before I pull my existing motor.
Re: Inspecting 6 liter short block I would change the rod and main bearings, and have a machine shop look over the crank to check for out of round journals. Better to do it while it is out of the truck. Cam bearings should be fine if they are low milage. Just my .02.
