Metal Shavings on Cam Position Switch
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From: Pasadena Texas
Metal Shavings on Cam Position Switch Here is the short story. I burnt an exhaust valve while running at the Texas Mile. I I pulled the heads ,fixed the valve,and installed a new cam & springs.
Fired the engine back up, it started on the 2nd crank all is well. The tach stopped working and it blew a code 334 cam switch high. When i pulled the switch it was covered with fine soft metal shavings. The switch is a magnet, so it must be ferrous material. Has any one had a cam bearing spin in the block? Has any one else experienced this. Thanks John
Fired the engine back up, it started on the 2nd crank all is well. The tach stopped working and it blew a code 334 cam switch high. When i pulled the switch it was covered with fine soft metal shavings. The switch is a magnet, so it must be ferrous material. Has any one had a cam bearing spin in the block? Has any one else experienced this. Thanks John
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 321
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From: Buffalo, N.Y.
Not with ferrous metal. I was going to do a simple head/cam/intake job on my '02 WS6, when one of the speed shop guys helping me, noticed that the front cam bearing was wiped.
I had to take the engine off the engine cradle (I have a lift in my shop, so we dropped the engine out the bottom), put it on an engine stand, and disassemble the bottom end. That's when I discovered all 8 rod bearings, all 5 main bearings, and every crank journal was scored. All 5 cam bearings were wiped, too.
Turns out that after casting/machining, the block was never properly de-burred. There were aluminum burrs hanging all over every cast/machined surface & hole on the engine block. It took me two nights, at 6 to 8 hours/night, to hand de-burr the entire block. That's what forced me (kind of) to go the forged stroker route.
I'm not at all surprised to hear that you, too, are having metal shaving/particle contamination problems. Good luck.
I had to take the engine off the engine cradle (I have a lift in my shop, so we dropped the engine out the bottom), put it on an engine stand, and disassemble the bottom end. That's when I discovered all 8 rod bearings, all 5 main bearings, and every crank journal was scored. All 5 cam bearings were wiped, too.
Turns out that after casting/machining, the block was never properly de-burred. There were aluminum burrs hanging all over every cast/machined surface & hole on the engine block. It took me two nights, at 6 to 8 hours/night, to hand de-burr the entire block. That's what forced me (kind of) to go the forged stroker route.
I'm not at all surprised to hear that you, too, are having metal shaving/particle contamination problems. Good luck.
