Timing chain stretch
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2005
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Timing chain stretch I've been thinking, (Yeah, I know it's dangerous 
) we all know that timing chains stretch, that's a given. But how many of you guys try to compensate for the stretch when you degree your cams?? For example, let's say you're running the now infamous Patrick G. torque cam. If I remember correctly it was 224, 227, 110, 110. So you put forth the extra effort to set it up that way and at the same time install a new chain. Five thousand mile later your chain has stretched and now your cam is reading 224, 227, 110, 108. (Did I go the right way?? 
) When I degree my cam, I'd like to know that it'll be "right" 10 or 20 thousand miles down the road. How much does a chain stretch?? How many degrees do you try to compensate with?? Will it throw your tune off when it stretchs and if so, is it enough to worry about?? I know Patrick doesn't have to worry about this, because he never leaves a cam setup in long enough to worry about chain stretch!! 
Anyway, I know some of you do it. Let's hear the differing opinions on why or why not to compensate, and if you do, by how much.
) we all know that timing chains stretch, that's a given. But how many of you guys try to compensate for the stretch when you degree your cams?? For example, let's say you're running the now infamous Patrick G. torque cam. If I remember correctly it was 224, 227, 110, 110. So you put forth the extra effort to set it up that way and at the same time install a new chain. Five thousand mile later your chain has stretched and now your cam is reading 224, 227, 110, 108. (Did I go the right way?? ) When I degree my cam, I'd like to know that it'll be "right" 10 or 20 thousand miles down the road. How much does a chain stretch?? How many degrees do you try to compensate with?? Will it throw your tune off when it stretchs and if so, is it enough to worry about?? I know Patrick doesn't have to worry about this, because he never leaves a cam setup in long enough to worry about chain stretch!! Anyway, I know some of you do it. Let's hear the differing opinions on why or why not to compensate, and if you do, by how much. Last edited by Gearhead1; May 17, 2006 at 08:34 PM.
Thats a good question but even when I have seen timing chains that appear loose as in the factory Ls1 chain, it always lines up dot to dot when you rotate the engine. If that is true its not moving much. 
I think they the danger is in the chain busting as I have had one stock chain do.
I think they the danger is in the chain busting as I have had one stock chain do. 
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: BFE
This is why some like to put double rollers that are tighter than ...
Actualy when your chain stretches it retards the cam, not advance it.
From your exemple it would be 110/110, becomes 110/111
If you buy a good quality chain, you won't have that problem at the short run (20K)
That is where a J-WISS shines and why it costs 130 $$
There is also another option which is a chain tentioner.
Actualy when your chain stretches it retards the cam, not advance it.
From your exemple it would be 110/110, becomes 110/111
If you buy a good quality chain, you won't have that problem at the short run (20K)
That is where a J-WISS shines and why it costs 130 $$
There is also another option which is a chain tentioner.
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
This is why some like to put double rollers that are tighter than ...
Actualy when your chain stretches it retards the cam, not advance it.
From your exemple it would be 110/110, becomes 110/111
If you buy a good quality chain, you won't have that problem at the short run (20K)
That is where a J-WISS shines and why it costs 130 $$
There is also another option which is a chain tentioner.
Actualy when your chain stretches it retards the cam, not advance it.
From your exemple it would be 110/110, becomes 110/111
If you buy a good quality chain, you won't have that problem at the short run (20K)
That is where a J-WISS shines and why it costs 130 $$
There is also another option which is a chain tentioner.
