Hey guys Im putting a brand new engine in my 98 z28. Should I pull the trans and all or disconnect at the bell housing? Whats the easiest way to do this and what do I need th disassemble or take off before?

 

Leave the trans on and drop the whole k-member assymbly out of the bottom.

 

You are going to get people that say taking it out the top is easy. I can assure you dropping it out the bottom is effortless other than needing a lift, although I did it without one

The hardest part was removing the stupid heat shield around the brake lines - just anoying taking those tiny bolts out

 

Does anyone know of any how to pages on doing this? I dont feel like winging it but I will if I have to.

 

IS that assuming he has a lift and can do that? Otherwise if all he has is say jack stands or an engine lift.. what should he do? Curious for my own knowledge too

 

I used an engine lift to pick the car up by the rad support - did it once like that and once with a lift.

 

There are some write-up's around here. I think there might be some in jrp's sticky so I'll take a look and come back.

EDIT:

Here ya go

Engine Removal

click here and here

 

I have an engine lift and jack stands.

 

In short hand...

Remove the following:
Y-Pipe
Tourque arm & Drive shaft
two front brake lines from the ABS block
Power steering lines
disconnect steering shaft
Wheel speed sensor wires
brake booster vacuum line
disconnect the harness from inside the passenger compartment
unbolt the A/C from side of block
drain coolant and disconnect all water lines
unbolt strut towers and 6 k-member bolts

I'm sure there are a couple other things, but everything comes out in one piece, engine w/accessories, tranny, headers etc... no leaning over fenders for countless hours removing stuff, pulling radiators etc... you can reasseble everything out of the car and stick it right back in.

 

This looks great thanks guys!

 

i pulled the engine and trans from the top in one piece. heads, intake and crank pulley were still attached. from start to finish - 3 hours.
I've done it both ways, and MY OPINION, pulling from the top is easier.
If pulled from the top:
1) ENTIRE exhaust stayed in 1 piece (just pulled the header bolts out)
2) NO NEED for an alignment after install
3) NO NEED to bleed brakes
4) NO NEED for a lift
5) NO NEED to lift a car where it wasn't designed to be lifted from
6) NO NEED to get car insanly high to roll/cart/drag out assembly
7) If new motor is not going in immediatly, a motor is far easier to store, or keep out of the way than the whole assembly.
Again, it's my opinion only, I've done it both ways, from now on, the motor will come out the top.

 

Sounds great! could you tell me how to do it, what to do, and what not to do.

 

Please do as much research as possible and pick whichever method is more comfortable for you. I also tried it out the top and found it much more time consuming.

 

1) drain the fluids - oil, coolant, trans
2) remove the battery
3) remove the radiator, fans and hoses (leave the upper hose in the car for the power steering cooler
4) allow condennsor to hang
5) remove all accesories and brackets - including waterpump
6) hang the power steering pulley close to the fuse boxes
7) flip the ac compressor up and into the battery pocket
8) start from the driver side and work your way to the passenger side-start unplugging everything. once the harness is free, place it on top of the ac compressor including all ground wires - 3 on back of heads, 1 on driver side of block and 1 on passenger of block. Don't forget the sensors at the ack of the motor and the sensor on the bottom of the passenger side of the block. Front 02 sensor included
9) suspend the starter from the frame, no need to disconnect it
10) remove the fuel rail
11) remove drive shaft
12) remove trans crossmember - support trans at this time
13) remove hood struts and supprt hood STRAIGHT UP as far as you can. it's easier to remove the hood for clearence issues, but it's a bitch to line it up when re-installing. This is the WORST part of the whole job is dealing with the hood
14) using the row of threaded holes ABOVE the header holes, install a strong chain using the 2nd hole back from the front on either side. Support the weight of the motor
15) Pull the through bolts for the motor mounts
16) slowly start raising the motor and pulling it foward to clear the pedestals
17) lower trans - protect the tail seal
18) start raising the motor again and pulling foward. At this point, you may or may not want to pull the pulley off. I didn't and had no problems with clearence. Just be easy.
19) clear the oil pan from the frame and the rad support.
20) pull the rest of the way out.
There may a couple things left out, but what I wrote here is a good start to get going. If I forgot anything, you will see it when doing the job. Overall, it's really straight foward and easy. Pulling the motor from the top makes the job a true at home job to complete because the need for an alignment is not needed.
If pulling the trans is not needed, you can support the trans with the use of a floor jack and the cross member. The trans will still need to be moved back for free movement of the motor though. I've done this to.

Good luck. Any questions while doing the job, don't hesitate to call me.
I left you my # in a pm

Justin

 

Hmmm If ipull it out from the bottom I can assemble it before I put it back in... hmm...

 

**** THOSE BOLTS!!!

But I took mine out from the bottom slowly jacking up the car inch by inch till the car was high enough to roll the engine and tranny out from underneath, i have pictures of the process somewhere, I'll search for it for you, you lazy bastards!

Edit: Found one picture.

 

Thanks for all the information.

 

I only have 1 floor jack and 2 jack stands.... I also have a bunch of cynder blocks... Is this all I need?

 

id use the 2x4 method. cynder blocks may cut it but i have seen tuner cars that weigh a substancial amount less than our cars cruble cynder blocks...

 

I dont care which way to do it all I care about now is a good walkthrough.
Ive never pulled out an LS1