2000 Z28 engine replacement
Thanks,
Dan
LS1's have a noisy valve train to begin with, but piston slap is only heard on cold start up, and goes away when the engine warms. GM says it is ok and not detremental to the engines life.
LS1's also have a shady PCV system that causes oil to blow by and burn. You could change the PCV, and not have as much / any oil consumption problems.
Just somethings to consider.
The way I look at is you are banking on something that isnt garunteed (Car being worth alot of money). Some stupid driver could pull infront of you and game over. And if your engine is 'on the way out' what are you going to do when it goes out. Leave it in the garage becuase it has the original engine that doesnt run? Just food for though I guess, but in the end its obviously your call.
I am not banking on the car being worth a lot of money - in fact I'm banking it's not that is why I am considering the new engine. If I thought there was much likelyhood of that, I wouldn't even consider it. I bought the car simply as a weekend toy, not an investment. Keeping it original is just something I want to consider if people don't think I should worry about the issues.
It boils down to this - as you said these are all common problems to LS1's. If the car lasts to 100k or something like that and needs to be rebuilt, I am completely fine with that and will rebuild it.
My concern is that up until about 7k -10k the car exhibited none of the characteristics I mentioned. That is when the piston slap started and the oil consumption started. At that time, the oil consumption was just under 1 qt per change and GM said it had to burn over 1 qt per 1,000 miles to be considered out of spec. I know GM says that piston slap is normal and not detremental to the engine. I personally don't buy that - I think GM wasn't interested in fixing/replacing a bunch of LS1's sitting in cars that they knew were on a dead platform. If my car would have done it from the first day I got it, I wouldn't think much of it. But it started about 10k and has gotten worse. The tick at idle started about 5k ago and is getting worse. The knock/ping (I am not sure what it is) also started at the same time, but has remained constant.
I would say take a new motor for free. If you have a warranty and you believe that something is wrong get it fixed before you will have to pay for it.
That is my 2 cents.
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