Need a little help concerning a Stroker
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 1,691
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well,
my stock motor decided it was time to go poof. I'm not sure yet if it's a rod bolt failure, spun bearing or both ? Anyways, if my block is in pretty good condition I would like to re-use it and build a "BUDGET" 382 stroker(Already have a great cam, my lingenfelter heads that will be recieving larger valves, and of course the 90/90). The only problem is, I'm not sure where to start and what to use. I know I want to use an eagle crank 4.00 and 4.00 specific mahle pistons/rings but after that... I'm clueless.. Any help would be much appreciated for my budget build up.
Thanks!
my stock motor decided it was time to go poof. I'm not sure yet if it's a rod bolt failure, spun bearing or both ? Anyways, if my block is in pretty good condition I would like to re-use it and build a "BUDGET" 382 stroker(Already have a great cam, my lingenfelter heads that will be recieving larger valves, and of course the 90/90). The only problem is, I'm not sure where to start and what to use. I know I want to use an eagle crank 4.00 and 4.00 specific mahle pistons/rings but after that... I'm clueless.. Any help would be much appreciated for my budget build up.
Thanks!
#3
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Arizona
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Come on peoples. The poor kid just got his H/C setup put together less than 3 weeks ago and KA'Boom. Any responses and advice in regards to what needs to be done and parts that should be used would be much appreciated. Keep in mind this needs to be a budget shortblock, as he just put a good amount of money in the H/C setup. He is looking at a 347 or 383. Perferable a 382 if the block is reusable.
Thanks
Thanks
#6
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Arizona
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by treysoucie
ive heard the eagle cranks are bottom line compared to others...
we are looking for help with other componets and/or suggestions.
Trending Topics
#10
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: VA
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a 383 stroker kit, just put together. I got it from SCDP. I paid $2400 plus some parts and gaskets. The block has to be punched .007" over for the new pistons. Diamond forged pistons with rings, Scat h-beam rods, and a forged eagle 4340 crank. I can feel that it has more torque. Runs great with a Tr224 114 cam at 11.1 compression and a set of stage 1 ls6 heads. Torque everywhere....need to get it tuned. My numbers should be around 420 rwhp and 450 rwtq with this cam. I could of gone with a bigger cam, but I put a set of better heads on instead. My kit was 10.6:1 with the stock heads, with the ls6 heads it is 11.1 now. Hope this helps!!!
#12
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Arizona
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by turbotacoma
I have a 383 stroker kit, just put together. I got it from SCDP. I paid $2400 plus some parts and gaskets. The block has to be punched .007" over for the new pistons. Diamond forged pistons with rings, Scat h-beam rods, and a forged eagle 4340 crank. I can feel that it has more torque. Runs great with a Tr224 114 cam at 11.1 compression and a set of stage 1 ls6 heads. Torque everywhere....need to get it tuned. My numbers should be around 420 rwhp and 450 rwtq with this cam. I could of gone with a bigger cam, but I put a set of better heads on instead. My kit was 10.6:1 with the stock heads, with the ls6 heads it is 11.1 now. Hope this helps!!!
ddnspider thanks for yours as well. Mind if i ask you what your short block is made up of and what is cost your roughly ?
Thanks.
#14
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
After see all the engine problems on here lately here is my opinion. You should call around and decide what shop you want to build your new engine and see what parts they like to use. Just start out by telling them your current goals and future plans for the car. It seems like 60% of the people on the internet just part things together then either blow it up or dont put out very good number. You stand a much better chance of being happy when you work with a good shop.
#15
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Why 4" and not 4.1 (Eagle) or 4.125 (others) or 4.185 (Lunati). Eagle sells a complete rotating assembly for the 4.100". A shorter rod doesn't hurt anything. 2.5-4.5% more displacement helps.
Diamond, JE and Manley are now selling pistons with short pins, and there isn't enough cost difference in standard pistons to worry about. The CompStar parts from Callies (their off-shore brand) 'may' be slightly better.
Diamond, JE and Manley are now selling pistons with short pins, and there isn't enough cost difference in standard pistons to worry about. The CompStar parts from Callies (their off-shore brand) 'may' be slightly better.
#17
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just a thought, but have you looked into buy a longblock or a shortblock? Machine shops costs can be a bitch, and truely good machine shops are few and far between, and most of the good ones are sponsors here anyway
Maybe look into buying a fully assembled engine and drop it in, you may even get one under warranty like that.
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
Maybe look into buying a fully assembled engine and drop it in, you may even get one under warranty like that.
#18
TECH Senior Member
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Call Bryan at LME, see what kinda price he can give you. Better have a pro build you a shortblock.
And if budget doesn't allow (I know I had to downgrade for my 370), then just get a nicely built 347. Much better than a half *** built 382.
And if budget doesn't allow (I know I had to downgrade for my 370), then just get a nicely built 347. Much better than a half *** built 382.
#20
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Giddings, TX
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Let me try to get this clarified. This is a LS-1 based motor you are wanting to build right? A 4.00 inch piston wont work, the bore is 3.9 inch and a LS-1 wont accept a 4.00 inch bore without resleeving it.
Concerning the 4.00 inch or larger stroke, I think the bottom of the bores have to be notched for anything bigger than 4.00 inch stroke, Im not sure on this but I believe I read this somewhere. The iron 6.0 block will accept the bigger stroke with out a problem. I am concerned about this also because I want to build a 389 ci motor for my 04 GTO and dont want to bore out or have the block resleeved to a bigger bore. I want a 3.9 inch bore and the long stroke.
Originally Posted by DavidNJ
Why 4" and not 4.1 (Eagle) or 4.125 (others) or 4.185 (Lunati). Eagle sells a complete rotating assembly for the 4.100". A shorter rod doesn't hurt anything. 2.5-4.5% more displacement helps.
Diamond, JE and Manley are now selling pistons with short pins, and there isn't enough cost difference in standard pistons to worry about. The CompStar parts from Callies (their off-shore brand) 'may' be slightly better.
Diamond, JE and Manley are now selling pistons with short pins, and there isn't enough cost difference in standard pistons to worry about. The CompStar parts from Callies (their off-shore brand) 'may' be slightly better.