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priming oil system

Old Jul 22, 2006 | 09:52 AM
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Default priming oil system

Did a quick search and didnt see a response that actually fits my situation. I have a brand new LQ-4 (6.0l) that has never been started. It is still on an engine stand and wont be installed for at least a year. I had removed the intake and spark plugs and sprayed in an engine fogger to help prevent rust,etc. My question is, do I leave it alone or should I be turning it over once in a while? Is there any realistic way to get oil flowing by turning the engine over or do I need a pre-oiler setup? If I need a pre-oiler, any suggestions/tricks? Thanks.
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Old Jul 22, 2006 | 09:55 AM
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Wonder if you could make one of those drill driven oil pumps for changing oil on boats to work through the oil filter with an oil filter adapter.
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Old Jul 22, 2006 | 10:59 AM
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Interesting concept. I have one of those pumps, but I am not sure how much pressure it would generate.

Last edited by george88gta; Jul 22, 2006 at 12:49 PM.
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Old Jul 22, 2006 | 12:21 PM
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Its not about pressure really with pre-oiling, if your getting oil up the cam bearings and turning it over the rest should be fine - you would see oil within seconds on a dry engine.

My 408 I had assembly lube on all the bearings, and when we were cranking it over it made oil pressure on my mechanical gauge then we fired it up.
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Old Jul 22, 2006 | 12:57 PM
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Yea, just crank it over until you get oil pressure then fire it up.
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Old Jul 22, 2006 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Slicknic
Yea, just crank it over until you get oil pressure then fire it up.
That is the issue. Engine is on a stand. I could use an impact gun and turn it over that way. Basically just afraid that I may damage something since it has been sitting so long. Looks like the oil filter thread is 13/16 - 16 so I probably will look around for some fittings and make up an adapter for my drill pump. At least that way I may be able to get some oil moving around and then crank it with the impact gun. Then it will have to be a monthly maintenance chore.
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Old Jul 22, 2006 | 06:11 PM
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Actually, you may be better off just buying an adapter for the dual oil filter setup. There are a couple of companies that make one. Then you can just rig the hoses to your pump. Since you don't need to keep the pan full, you could leave out the plug and re-capture the oil that comes out. If you turn it over by hand, stop in a different place each time so the same valve springs are not always the ones compressed.
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Old Jul 23, 2006 | 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by george88gta
I could use an impact gun and turn it over that way.

ABSOLUTELY DO NOT DO THAT. YOU WILL SCREW SOMETHING UP.

either use the starter or turn it over by hand. you don't really have any other options.

if you're feeling ambitious, you could remove the front cover of the oil pump and pack the pump full of petroleum jelly. that will keep the parts from corroding and will serve as a primer when you decide to start the engine.
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Old Jul 23, 2006 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mmmchickenboy
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT DO THAT. YOU WILL SCREW SOMETHING UP.

either use the starter or turn it over by hand. you don't really have any other options.

if you're feeling ambitious, you could remove the front cover of the oil pump and pack the pump full of petroleum jelly. that will keep the parts from corroding and will serve as a primer when you decide to start the engine.
I am trying not to disassemble the engine, it is brand new. I am leaning toward a remote filter adapter and attaching it to an external pump to push oil thru the system. I will remove the plugs and squirt oil in each cylinder and turn over by hand. Since I have been using that fogger spray, I would hope that the rings arent stuck. Should I remove the valve covers and squirt some oil on the valve stems/springs/rockers?
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Old Jul 23, 2006 | 10:18 AM
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Just take the little fitting that above the oil filter off drill and tap it for a 1/8" pipe fitting. Then you can use a hand pump like the one Amsoil sells that screws onto the oil bootles to pump oil through your engine. Thats the way I prime my engines and the hand pump will normally get you about 20lbs of pressure.
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Old Jul 23, 2006 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by willyfastz
Just take the little fitting that above the oil filter off drill and tap it for a 1/8" pipe fitting. Then you can use a hand pump like the one Amsoil sells that screws onto the oil bootles to pump oil through your engine. Thats the way I prime my engines and the hand pump will normally get you about 20lbs of pressure.
Is that the adapter/fitting that is held on with two bolts and has a nipple pointing up? Has part number 12551595 cast in to it. Looks pretty easy to try this tip.
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Old Jul 23, 2006 | 01:44 PM
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disconect the coil packs so you have no spark and turn the motor over using the starter
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Old Jul 23, 2006 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by george88gta
Is that the adapter/fitting that is held on with two bolts and has a nipple pointing up? Has part number 12551595 cast in to it. Looks pretty easy to try this tip.

That's the one. GM actually has a special tool to prelube the engine using that port. Kent Moore tools are way pricey, though.
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Old Jul 23, 2006 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave_62
That's the one. GM actually has a special tool to prelube the engine using that port. Kent Moore tools are way pricey, though.
Just got back from the garage. I drilled and tapped the fitting. Off to NAPA tomorrow to get a 90 degree elbow and a plug. I already have a pump so it looks like I am set. Thanks everyone for the help.
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 09:06 PM
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Glad you got it drilled and taped, to me this seems the best way becouse you don't have to turn over a dry engine.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by willyfastz
Glad you got it drilled and taped, to me this seems the best way becouse you don't have to turn over a dry engine.
Picked up the parts from NAPA and I am all set for getting this engine oiled up. I also went to Chevy and ordered a new fitting/plate and gasket. The correct part number for the fitting, actually called a cover, is 12577903 (list $7.21) and the gasket is 12553210 (list $4.33). Figured it would be cheap insurance when I get the engine running, rather than worry about the threaded parts leaking.
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