QUICK Q,work in progress
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 270
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QUICK Q,work in progress OK, gotta run across town and get my 3 leg puller back to do the crank gear. I didn't know it would be needed again. Got a new Rollmaster dbl. adjustable set to go on, because my cam (unknowingly) was a 112+5, and I want to retard about 4 deg. OK first Q, I got the HD Rollmaster set, and a HD SLP pump, and if I'm correct, I don't need to use the shims that came with the timing set?
Now the biggie..(AFAIK) The crank gear came with multiple keyways so you can advance or retard the gear. I'm a newb, obviously, and I'm kind of nervous about lining up the dots that far away from stock. The + or - marks are alot further off center than you would think, and is this normal, or should I just put the thing on straight up? Thanks for any fast help, I'm now taking off to get the puller.
Now the biggie..(AFAIK) The crank gear came with multiple keyways so you can advance or retard the gear. I'm a newb, obviously, and I'm kind of nervous about lining up the dots that far away from stock. The + or - marks are alot further off center than you would think, and is this normal, or should I just put the thing on straight up? Thanks for any fast help, I'm now taking off to get the puller.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 270
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OK, heres a copy of the install instructions. It seems to me you just should line up the keyway with the appropriate setting, and then line up normally using the dot up on the crank gear.(not the one down on the keyway) The instructions say use the blue dot, which doesn't exist, and has all these rather confusing arrows. Please advise, lots of guys have used these timing sets, I'm sure.
Also, the factory crank sprocket is awfully hard to remove. Should it take alot of force with the puller to pop off?
Thanks.
Also, the factory crank sprocket is awfully hard to remove. Should it take alot of force with the puller to pop off?
Thanks.
First, why are you wanting to retard the cam that much? Most off the shelf cams come with +4 ground in, so +5 isn't really that crazy. You're talking a 107ICL as compared to a 108ICL. Not saying you don't know what you're doing, just making sure you're doing it for the right reasons though before you go messing with the timing.
As a side note, the markings on the crank timing sprocket don't mean degrees of timing, they are merely reference marks - e.g. +2 does not mean +2 degrees of timing, it equates to more than that.
As a side note, the markings on the crank timing sprocket don't mean degrees of timing, they are merely reference marks - e.g. +2 does not mean +2 degrees of timing, it equates to more than that.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 270
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Thanks, I think. I was trying to get the cam retarded a bit because I'd like to lower the DCR to about 8.4. The way the cam came (112+5) makes the DCR a bit higher than I want to feel safe running 92 oct. gas. So I got the adjustable timing set,and planned on retarding 4 deg. , to make it a 112+1. Is this not worth doing? And also you didn't explain how to line up the new keyway any better than the instructions. Sorry, just don't get it. Oh, I'll be the first to admit I don't know what I'm doing, that's not really an issue.
Just wondering why you wanted to retard the cam, lowering DCR for pump gas is a very good reason to do so. As for the timing marks, there are two timing marks on the rollmaster sprocket and one on the crank sprocket. The mark that you want to use is the one on the right (assuming you are looking at it installed on the crank). To retard the cam 2 degrees, first make sure the cam sprocket dot is at the 6 o'clock position. Then, place the rollmaster sprocket on the crank with the key going into the "-2" keyway of the rollmaster sprocket. This would equate to putting the sprocket on the key at the "0" position, taking it off and turning it counter clockwise by one keyway. Now, this does not equate to 2 degrees of retard but rather 4 degrees of cam retard I *believe* on our engines and hopefully someone can confirm or correct me on that one. Does that make more sense to you now? You can also think of it in the way that if you're looking at the front of the car, the motor rotates counter-clockwise. So, if you adjusted the crank sprocket one notch counter-clockwise and then aligned the crank sprocket so that the dot was straight up, the cam sprocket dot would be "retarded" or lagging behind the crank sprocket by so many degrees. The same goes for advancing the cam. In this respect you would adjust the crank sprocket one notch clockwise, align it so that the dot is now straight up and you will see that the cam sprocket is now "advanced" or ahead of the crank sprocket.
