Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Help me build this engine up right!

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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 12:35 AM
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Mrs. Ronin's Avatar
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Default Help me build this engine up right!

Alrighty! I got my husband a CETA. The mods on it are extensive!
Vortech supercharger running 9lbs boost
CNC ported heads
Custom Cams lifter rods
Bullet racing cam
36# injectors

I think that is it for engine stuff.
Well we took it in to have it tuned because it said it was running rich in a couople of banks, the shop put it on the dyno and proceeded to break it!
THey didn't tell me what was wrong just that there was no compression in #7 they wanted an OUTRAGEOUS sum of money to fix it and my husband is a Marine and we can't afford that. SO I took on the task of fixing it! I have dropped the engine out and discovered it broke the piston. Well obviously new pistons are in order! THe cylinder wall is a LITTLE scratched!
My deal here is I would like to build the engine back so it will withstand the pressure of the suppercharger and get the most HP. I DO NOT have a fortune to spend on this. My husband is deployed now so I am fixing it for him myself.
As I said, the engine is now out of the car, I need to find a good machine shop but first I need to know what I want done! How far can the cylinder be honed before I have probs? Should I just go ahead and get an LS2 block? How much are they? Best place to get them? I was planning on going with JE pistons, and Carrillo rods.
The car was hitting just over 550RWHP before it got broke so do I need a new crank?
I inspected the other side pistons today and it apears the valve is or has hit the #4 piston, is that a cam problem or a spring prob or what? New valves?
I don't know what valve springs are in there so I was going to change them to be on the safe side. any suggestions?
I have read a couple of threads that people are breaking bearings, should I change them while the engine is out? ALSO hubby wants me to look into an electric water pump. I thought I was reading that they fail quite often?
This is a car my hubby has to drive frequently so I don't want to go all crazy! Just something that will preform properly and he can be proud of.
I know I am asking a lot but any input would be great.
Thanks
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 03:40 AM
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Getting the LS2 shortblock or with forged internals would be a step in the favored direction as far as I'm concerned. You could probably go with a custom blower cam and a set of heads to match that will work well with a force-fed application. That would take care of the piston to valve problems as well as springs if the heads come complete.

Possible sponsors are Patriot, TSP, Thunder, SDPC.

I would stick with the stock water pump however. If you are on a budget the Meziere is gonna break the bank.

As far as the rotating assembly is concerned I would just get a 6.0l stock crank and maybe some Eagle H-beams and the JE pistons like you were thinking. Now would also be the best time to get the ARP hardware for the bottom end. Such as the rod bolts, main bolts, and possibly studs for heads (or bolts). That is about all I can think of this early in the morning. Just trying to give you a basis to start with.

Jordan
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 10:53 AM
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Yeah it already has the ARP stud bolt kit. So where would the best place be to get an LS2 block? And best price on pistons and rods and such? I am sure one of you knows who has the best deal right now!
Thanks
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 07:17 PM
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Well took the engine to a machine shop. I am going with JE forged pistons, I believe they are 1/10 over, Eagle H-beam rods, an Eagle crank, hydralic rollers, new gaskets, new valve spring retainers cause I have Ti ones and I know they are not as good fro all the time driving
I am sticking with the same cam and my heads I found out are stage 2 heads that have been CNC ported, the valves I believe are steel valves and the springs are aftermarket.
I am getting all new bearings and gaskets and theengine is being all cleaned and gone through.
So I am paying $5600 for all of this and having it all put back together for me. Is this a good price or can I get a better deal going with something else?
Is there anything else I should do while I am at it? Is this a good setup?
Thanks

Also this bearing I hear a lot of people blowing out, which one is it? I want to change this while I am at it so I can hopefully avoid doing it again anytime soon.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 07:07 AM
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TSP has LS1 shortblocks for $2800 already assembled, balanced and blueprinted. I think they even have iron 408 shortblocks for $3800 or something like that. Both of them have stock cranks and forged pistons.
I would consider these options before paying $5600 for a machine shop to rebuild the factory block. Just a thought...

Not sure what you are referring to about a bearing that blows out. Bearings dont "blow out" but seals do. Maybe it is a seal you are talking about?

Ohh, and tell your husband he is a damn lucky guy to have a wife like you!!!
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 07:39 AM
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From: Justin, TX
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Yeah, that was why I was saying LS2 Shortblock. 5600.00 is pretty steep.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 12:48 PM
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yeah I wasn't to pleased with that. I have put them on hold for a bit. I was looking at Texas speed. Seems like a good deal, the scat rods are they good?
Also what all am I going to need to finish this off?
Head gaskets, best ones and best place? I need to move my ARP head bolts can that be done?
I will have to put a new timing chain on and move my stuff from my block to the new block. Like my cam and pumps and pulleys and stuff.
Is there anything else I need to do?
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