for the longest time i thought it was tuning but now i know it's not. but i'm also not sure what it is. the car has been bogging down and has hesitation problems. i'm thinking cam sensor or crank sensor but not sure. fuel filter, pump, pressure, injectors are all fine, new spark plugs and wires. any help would be appreciated this problem has been going on for awhile and is starting to empty my pockets. thanks, Bill

 

no one out there has a clue what i'm talking about? come on guys!?

 

If youve got HPTuners, try doing a CASE relearn. Failing that, pop out the cam and crank sensors and look for debris stuck to the magnetic end. That can throw things off. No DTC's I assume?

BTW, The angle you took the pic in your sig makes it look like youve got an 18" wide tire in the rear right. And a donut on the rear left.

 

the code was p0300 multiple misfires detected, i forgot to add that sorry. i just had it tuned with efi live however i don't have any software myself, all i have is a code reader. i have 11in TT II's in the back with 315 tires, but i see what you're saying.

 

Dude - I have been chasing down a bogging down/hesitation issue on my hawk for the past 3 darn weeks!

Same as you, I checked /replacaed plugs & wires, I also suspected and replaced my cam sensor. Same as you, i still had the problem, I also elimited fuel filter, pump, pressur & injectors.

Finally I had to break down and get my friend/mechanic involved, he has access to scanning & loggin software (as I dont).

It turns out I had a bad coil on cyl#4. To add salt to the wound, my coils are the fancy MSD's that I bought & installed 10 months ago.

We got a replacement, installed & life should be good here again. I only had the car back for a day, but he had monitored it long term after the coil replacement wihtout any ill effects.

So check out your misfires, and at what cyl or cyl's (may be more than 1). Do you have stock coils? I know they are supposed to be resiliant - but hey, nothing is perfect - its worth checking out.

Hope this helps, let me know!

 

all of my cylinders are missfiring but in particular #6cyl. i was thinking coil pack myself but not sure. anyone know of anything about a map minumum/maximum setting??? my brother had this issue when he put a cam in his car and had to change his settings around...wonder if mine could be the same?

 

Used a digital timing light to see if the missing was coil related and all didn't skip a beat...even swapped packs from side to side...no change The plug wires all checked out at 340 to 360ish ohms....listened for the double click, disconnected the MAF...the missing at 1900rpm is more pronounced with it disconnected. I'm stumped....wiring looks good..just one more thing to check tonight...IAC...stupid maybe...but it's the last thing in the book before a crank sensor replacement and relearn As mentioned before...this car ran awesome after the tune and several days after until driving home and then the miss returned

 

do you have full coverage. light the car on fire and start over!

 

not everyone can be as cool as you with your lil red fog lights

 

guess no one but me has ever had this problem...thanks for the help guys, appreciate it!!!

 

I have had many issues like this. I blew the cam sensor twice and the crank sensor once. Bad sensors give off a specific code, however. Bad cam sensors cause starting issues since the CPU is trying to find the cam position for firing purposes.

One thing you should check is the MAF. If your running an aftermarket unit, replace it with the stock unit and see if that helps. A bad MAF or poorly tuned car can cause these issues.

Since you got random misfire codes, re-check ALL the plugs, wires, coils, and CPU cable connections once more.

 

i replaced the cam and map sensor since i was back there a few days ago and no change. i've checked the plugs, wires, coils a hundred times and all the fuel components are brand new. its not the MAF either. anyone know anything about redoing the map settings??? would IAC be a cause?

 

i think it's the operator buddy

 

How do you know it's not tune related?

 

i unplugged the maf and it runs perfect, i swapped it out with a known good maf it still ran like ****. i cleaned both of them with electrical cleaner and still no change. so maybe it is tune related. after my last tune the car ran perfect for about a week, now it has hesitation problems that won't go away...wtf?

 

Dude, if you unplugged the MAF and it runs great then it's most likely the tune....especially since you put in a good MAF and it still runs like ***. Sounds like the MAF tables is really horked up. It could also be jacked up timing (but I kinda doubt that) as you revert to the secondary timing table when the MAF is unplugged.

 

thats what i'm thinking, but the one thing i can't figure out is why i don't pop any codes when i drive it with the MAF unplugged!?

 

I'm not sure if F-body PCMs routines are the same as Y-bodies, but on mine the PCM must see 2 consectutive MAF errors before it lights the CEL. This means the first time you start it with the MAF unplugged it won't set a CEL, but if you shut if off, and restart it will then.

 

i will try that and see if it pops a code. another guy had this same problem and he said it was the tune. something about the maf and map sensors fighting against each other and made it hesitate at part throttle. wonder if mine is doing the same!?

 

It's probly the tune.That Mondo bypass really screw's with the MAF readings.It ussually bypasses too much air which throws the MAF loopy.