Okay, I got my engine in and it runs pathetically. It smokes, smells of gasoline, barely runs, have to give it a good amount of throttle to keep it alive, and it won't rev above about 1000rpm. The tachometer doesn't work either, so that's just a guess. I replaced the cam and the crank position sensors. Triple checked all of my wiring including all grounds on the block on the back of the driver's side head. Everything is good.

I scanned the computer and came up with DTC P0336: Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance. Checked my crank position sensor again and all is good. I also used a mirror and light to check the teeth on the reluctor wheel and they are in good shape...

HOWEVER........ I decided to compare some pictures I had taken of the engine when I was building it to the stock shortblock. In particular, I compared the reluctor wheels and their orientations. Well... I found out that the reluctor wheel used in my engine was about 20 degrees off from the stock reluctor wheel(rough guess based on pics).

Here's the reason......... When the local engine builder balanced my rotating assembly, he had to add heavy metal into the crank. To do this, he had to remove the reluctor wheel. He said he got a special tool to put the reluctor wheel back on, and that the tool only allows him to put the wheel on one way. Well, it's pretty clear that the reluctor wheel did not go on the correct way. As a side note, the pics I have showing the reluctor wheel BEFORE it went to the engine builder show that the reluctor wheel was installed exactly like the stock reluctor wheel.

My questions are....... Are the stock and Eagle reluctor rings the same in terms of timing teeth location and orientation? The two wheels look slightly different, but the timing marks may be the same. Next question, is there really only one way to put on a reluctor wheel, kinda like the crank sprocket with the keyway? Next, is there a diagram that shows how to accurately install a reluctor wheel? Finally, will a stock reluctor wheel fit on an Eagle crank?

Thanks so much! I'd like to get these questions answered before I begin the motor removal tomarrow, thanks again everyone!

 

All the aftermarket cranks use the factory reluctor wheel. There is no keyway on the crank! Goodson makes the tool you are referring to. I have used it many times in the past without any issues. The tool uses the dowel/alignment hole on the factory crank flange (11mm) and an 8mm hole on the the reluctor wheel.

Part # for the tool is: RRJ-350 (from Goodson)
Part # for the LS1 reluctor wheel: 12559353

Jason

 

The reluctor wheel on my stock crank and the one that came with the Eagle crank look very different, but they may have the same timing marks. I don't know yet. Yes, he does have to Goodson tool. I wonder if they just put on the wrong reluctor wheel. He said somethingt about their being two different part numbers from GM for the reluctor wheel.

 

If he reused the reluctor ring and pressed it on it very well can be damaged.I know when mine slipped on my old motor i bought the new ring and when you install it you have to heat up the ring (not cherry hot) and the ring will drop right on and it will lock up on the crank when it cools down.

 

The builder bought a new one to put on. He used the Goodson tool as mentioned, not sure if he heated it up or not.