How to Oil prime a new LSx engine
Did you double check that your sensor is plugged in. Alot of people have broken their sensor off when doing manifold swaps as well, just something easy to look for and rule out before digging into the motor.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Nebraska
Yes, ..the oil pressure sending unit was plugged in and is new....so I filled the oil-filter...primed the oil pressure sending hole...fired it up and still no pressure. I then took the front apart and got to the oil pump (2:00am)to make sure everything was in order, and it look OK (front plug had no leaks, pump was stable)...however the pick-up tube -to-pump port connection seemed to be...well loose....and I see that the one screw is 180% opposite of what it should be....that might be the issue. I can't really get to the screw to check the O-ring...So I guess I'll have to drop the oil pan to get to it... if that isn't the problem then I have no idea what the hell it could be...
When I drop the oil-pan and windage tray I'll make sure to get some more lube/oil on the main bearings...#^&@*#
Stroker2112
When I drop the oil-pan and windage tray I'll make sure to get some more lube/oil on the main bearings...#^&@*#
Stroker2112
Last edited by Stroker2112; Sep 23, 2006 at 01:40 AM.
Sorry that you are having trouble. Most of us have been there and done that (had trouble) . . . I certainly have!
Get some rest before you mess with the engine any more. Fatigue and frustration are a recipie for more problems.
Steve
Get some rest before you mess with the engine any more. Fatigue and frustration are a recipie for more problems.
Steve
Thread Starter
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From: Nebraska
I wonder how far one's pick-up tube should clear the bottom of the oil pan?....I do know that with the eagle crank and 4" stroke I had to add an ARP washer to each main bolt in order to provide clearance. It's possible that my pickup tube then was also lowered(by the width of the washer) and therefore is too close to the bottom of the pan to draw oil properly...anyone experience that before?...
Stroker2112
Stroker2112
I don't think that the thickness of the washers alone would cause a problem at all. That's why ARP included them in the set. If you're concerned about this, cover the oil pickup tube with some plastic wrap (Saran Wrap, etc.) and put some modeling clay (Play Dough) on the bottom of the plastic covered pickup tube and install the pan with a few bolts. Then remove the pan and slice into the clay to get a cross section that will show you the clearance. I think that if you have at least a half inch or so, you'll be fine. Then just remove the clay.
Steve
Steve
I agree with Steve, I think this is a good place to start looking. I was just reading the Sept. GMHTP mag where they are building a stroker motor and they opted to not use the washers and instead trimmed the windage tray to clear the rods. They also mention the clay method and to be concerned with the pickup not being in the right place because it will suck itself to the pan and get no oil pressure. I'm going to guess that between the thicker ARP nuts (.070" thicker than stock) plus the washer, it would push the windage tray/pick up .100" closer to the pan. This may not be a problem but definatley worth looking into.
Dan
Dan
Thread Starter
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From: Nebraska
Thanks to everyone for your consultation! After replacing the oil pump and O-ring last night, I finally got oil pressure right away....a rock solid 65psi! It took less than a second for the gauge to rocket off of 0. Now its to the dyno-shop for a break-in and tune....I'll post the results in about 3-4 weeks. Thanks to everyone again...
Stroker2112 - 408ci, forged Eagle crank, 4340 rods, Diamond forged pistons, Pacesetter long tubed headers, 243 CnC'd heads, Torquer2 cam, K&N air, true dual exhaust w/flowmasters, stock intake & TB(next item on budget).
Stroker2112 - 408ci, forged Eagle crank, 4340 rods, Diamond forged pistons, Pacesetter long tubed headers, 243 CnC'd heads, Torquer2 cam, K&N air, true dual exhaust w/flowmasters, stock intake & TB(next item on budget).
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On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Odessa, Texas
Maybe I need to change the oil pump, when driving the pressure is at 40 or less. At first, when I put the motor in we forgot the lil plug in the back and had to go back and put it in then got some pressure. I still think it is kinda low but i'm gonna put my tune in in a here shortly and see how it runs. It sounds like I might need a new oil pump though.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Originally Posted by Stroker2112
Thanks to everyone for your consultation! After replacing the oil pump and O-ring last night, I finally got oil pressure right away....a rock solid 65psi! It took less than a second for the gauge to rocket off of 0. Now its to the dyno-shop for a break-in and tune....I'll post the results in about 3-4 weeks. Thanks to everyone again...
Stroker2112 - 408ci, forged Eagle crank, 4340 rods, Diamond forged pistons, Pacesetter long tubed headers, 243 CnC'd heads, Torquer2 cam, K&N air, true dual exhaust w/flowmasters, stock intake & TB(next item on budget).
Stroker2112 - 408ci, forged Eagle crank, 4340 rods, Diamond forged pistons, Pacesetter long tubed headers, 243 CnC'd heads, Torquer2 cam, K&N air, true dual exhaust w/flowmasters, stock intake & TB(next item on budget).
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Originally Posted by ShevrolayZ28
Unfortunately, the stock oil gauge will not show a reading, the gauge is dead when you crank the key. My car would not pump oil by turning the engine over. I've tried it for around 20-30 seconds with the spark plugs removed, the fuel pump disabled, the coils disconnected, and I saw NO oil circulation, no oil reached the rockers. The oil pump will not pick up the oil from the pan unless it's spinning much faster, i.e. with the engine running.
If you turn it over without starting it you risk creating some wear. Your only lubrication will be what was applied during assembly.
Try starting it IMO. If you don't get oil pressure within 5 seconds there is a problem and you should shut it down.
If you turn it over without starting it you risk creating some wear. Your only lubrication will be what was applied during assembly.
Try starting it IMO. If you don't get oil pressure within 5 seconds there is a problem and you should shut it down.
If you pull the plugs for priming you dont cause near as much wear. there is no compression, so the engine should turn very freely. when it comes time to prime my engine I think I will squirt a bit of oil in the plug holes, fill the filter, and crank it over a couple times
