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Oct 12, 2006 | 12:08 PM

SLP4CamaroSS

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From: Lawton, ok

rod bolts

how hard is it to replace the rod bolts? i know u got to drop the oil pan is there a way to get to them w/o droping the kmember?

Oct 12, 2006 | 01:40 PM

BrandonSS

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From: Indy

You have to loosen the K member. Place a block of wood on a jack and slightly lift the engine at the front of the block just behind the crank. There is a perfect place that will fit a 2x4 perfectly. Take pressure off the motor mounts and undo them. From there u can jack up the engine a little and or lower the cradle a little more. 6 bolts total. Then pull the pan.

Oct 12, 2006 | 01:54 PM

SLP4CamaroSS

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From: Lawton, ok

dont seem too hard. im just thinking maybe when i do my cam i should just buy heads and then just buy forged pistons lol

Oct 12, 2006 | 02:43 PM

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From: Indy

remove motor and trans out the bottom, while everthing is out, replace heads, lifters, intake, clutch, oil pump, timing chain, cam, rod bolts, everything.

Oct 12, 2006 | 03:25 PM

SLP4CamaroSS

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From: Lawton, ok

not goign to replace all that stuff man lol

Oct 12, 2006 | 03:28 PM

JoeyAnderson

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From: Winston-Salem, NC

Mine was 3 simple steps:

1) Order rod bolts from Katech
2) Drop car off at Tick Performance in Mount Airy, NC
3) Pick car up with rod bolts installed.

Haven't had any problems.

Oct 12, 2006 | 03:31 PM

SLP4CamaroSS

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From: Lawton, ok

how much a shop charges for that?

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Oct 12, 2006 | 04:29 PM

Wnts2Go10O

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From: Rockville, MD

i think ur goin a lil overboard dude, just your cam and heads and dont soin it to seventy billion rpm

Oct 12, 2006 | 04:36 PM

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From: Indy

Quote:

Originally Posted by SLP4CamaroSS

not goign to replace all that stuff man lol

you should. with any cam swap 99% of the guys on here are going to tell you to put an LS2 timing chain in it and put a ported LS6 pump on it. you said yourself you wanted to do a head swap, so just pull out the whole motor. anytime you have a car with more than 50,000 miles on it IMO you should replace the lifters with GM stock replacments (i mean come on, id pay $125 bucks to know that i wont have to peel my heads off again if something goes wrong with my old lifters) rodbolts should be replaced with katechs so that you can see over 7,000 rpms, you also need an LS6 intake to go with your setup, otherwise the LS1 intake will take precious hp. unless you have a mild cam your clutch wont be up to the task either.

but i mean what do i know

Oct 12, 2006 | 05:15 PM

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From: BTR, La

I vote you pull the motor. It'll probably save you time in the long run.

BenT.

Oct 12, 2006 | 07:52 PM

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Phil'sC5vette

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From: Tampa

mine were replaced when my motor was pulled for the cam, heads and clutch replacement.
there is talk that you should replace your bearing after untorquing them. I did not

Oct 13, 2006 | 01:12 AM

#13

SLP4CamaroSS

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From: Lawton, ok

well i was goign to replace the oil pump and timming chain . now i jst need to know which arp rod bolt to get or should i get the katech

Oct 13, 2006 | 02:49 AM

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Azar

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From: Indiana

The Katechs or Lingenfelters are what most are running on this board. I've read with ARP's you can screw something up relatively easy. Because you have to enlarge the rod bolt holes, I think. I would try and find the thread but search isn't working for me.

Oct 13, 2006 | 12:14 PM

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From: Indy

ARP says that you need to resize your rods, becuase it can make them out of round

katech says that you remove ferruls and put their rod bolts in and you are good to go..

guys have used arp rod bolts on here without resizing, but i just bought katechs. if i remeber correctly katechs and lingenfelters are the exact same bolt