Help me build a budget engine :)
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My shortblock has 60K very abusive miles on it and its time for a rebuild IMO this winter <img src="images/icons/tongue.gif" border="0">
My thoughts:
JE pistons (or equivalent) with lower ringlands...stock compression,
Lunati ProMOD 6.125 rods
stock crank
new bearings and rings.
What all machining would be "essential"???
Any flaw with my parts selection? I'm thinking about stepping up the nitrous shot a bit <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
My thoughts:
JE pistons (or equivalent) with lower ringlands...stock compression,
Lunati ProMOD 6.125 rods
stock crank
new bearings and rings.
What all machining would be "essential"???
Any flaw with my parts selection? I'm thinking about stepping up the nitrous shot a bit <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
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sounds good, unless you wanted to go with an iron block for strength. Are you machining the stock block at all (.010, maybe?). MTI heads?
Ryan
Ryan
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I argee with Ryan...go with the iron block.. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
It helps with the a ya...
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It helps with the a ya...
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I am looking into doing the iron block myself...see if I can get it done be winter's end (in other words how motivated I will be)
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Get a 6 liter block (4.0 bore), 6 liter crank (3.622 stroke), cleanup bore it for ~370 ci, nitrous slugs on a 6.125 rod, nice cam of your choice, maybe 226/230 or bigger.
J.
J.
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Brian, what you listed above is pretty much exactly what I'll be doing when my motor goes. I really don't want to mess with the all-bore blocks at this point. I plan on JE pistons w/ valve reliefs (for my little cam <img src="images/icons/tongue.gif" border="0"> ), Lunati Pro-mod rods, all-new bearings/rings, and reuse stock crank. This can be done relatively cheap if you can do the build up yourself. Machine shop labor should be cheap as well.
Jason
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I'm prolly going to stay aluminum block...my car's a heavy turd as it is <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
I'm going to limit myself to a 200-250 shot anyways <img src="images/icons/tongue.gif" border="0">
I'm going to limit myself to a 200-250 shot anyways <img src="images/icons/tongue.gif" border="0">
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I'm planning on building a motor for my blower this winter and am very interested in the "budget" aspect.
I was planning on using Scat 6.125" h-beam rods. I can get them from Sallee(sp?) chevrolet for ~$480. How much are the Lunati Pro-mod rods and where can I get them?
Thanks. This board has all the good topics. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
XLR8NSS
I was planning on using Scat 6.125" h-beam rods. I can get them from Sallee(sp?) chevrolet for ~$480. How much are the Lunati Pro-mod rods and where can I get them?
Thanks. This board has all the good topics. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
XLR8NSS
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Double post! Sorry <img src="images/icons/blush.gif" border="0">
[ November 13, 2001: Message edited by: XLR8NSS ]</p>
[ November 13, 2001: Message edited by: XLR8NSS ]</p>
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I have about $1500 or so in my shortblock. It's pretty simple, and consists of:
Stock '98 LS1 block honed .005
Wiseco forged blower/N20 pistons (1.330 comp. height)
Moly file-fit rings
Stock crank
Stock rods/rod bolts
Balanced rotating assembly
New GM bearings throughout
I did the final assembly myself, which saved some $$$. If I was doing it again, I'd go with a different piston, since the forged slugs are a little heavy, and the relocated top ring causes a small loss in compression (and I don't use N2O anymore). I'd go with the ARP rod bolts, since they seem like good inexpensive insurance. My ring gaps are also pretty excessive, since I originally set the engine up for ~200hp worth of juice...
I'm not touching/changing anything in the bottom end until catastrophic failure dictates the need to do so. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
Stock '98 LS1 block honed .005
Wiseco forged blower/N20 pistons (1.330 comp. height)
Moly file-fit rings
Stock crank
Stock rods/rod bolts
Balanced rotating assembly
New GM bearings throughout
I did the final assembly myself, which saved some $$$. If I was doing it again, I'd go with a different piston, since the forged slugs are a little heavy, and the relocated top ring causes a small loss in compression (and I don't use N2O anymore). I'd go with the ARP rod bolts, since they seem like good inexpensive insurance. My ring gaps are also pretty excessive, since I originally set the engine up for ~200hp worth of juice...
I'm not touching/changing anything in the bottom end until catastrophic failure dictates the need to do so. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
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[quote]Originally posted by XLR8NSS:
<strong>I'm planning on building a motor for my blower this winter and am very interested in the "budget" aspect.
I was planning on using Scat 6.125" h-beam rods. I can get them from Sallee(sp?) chevrolet for ~$480. How much are the Lunati Pro-mod rods and where can I get them?
Thanks. This board has all the good topics. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
XLR8NSS</strong><hr></blockquote>
Eric Connelle (noone) is selling his ARE low comp TT engine. Just a heads up <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
<strong>I'm planning on building a motor for my blower this winter and am very interested in the "budget" aspect.
I was planning on using Scat 6.125" h-beam rods. I can get them from Sallee(sp?) chevrolet for ~$480. How much are the Lunati Pro-mod rods and where can I get them?
Thanks. This board has all the good topics. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
XLR8NSS</strong><hr></blockquote>
Eric Connelle (noone) is selling his ARE low comp TT engine. Just a heads up <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
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[quote]Originally posted by blackhawk2000:
<strong>
Eric Connelle (noone) is selling his ARE low comp TT engine. Just a heads up <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
I need specifics man. You just can't post something like that without specifics. <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0">
I checked the classifieds and didn't see anything. I'm going to check "the other board" now. Let me know where I can find something about his motor please.
Thanks for the heads up.
XLR8NSS
<strong>
Eric Connelle (noone) is selling his ARE low comp TT engine. Just a heads up <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
I need specifics man. You just can't post something like that without specifics. <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0">
I checked the classifieds and didn't see anything. I'm going to check "the other board" now. Let me know where I can find something about his motor please.
Thanks for the heads up.
XLR8NSS
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I just found it. That will make a very nice motor for someone but not me. It's just not what I'm looking for. I want to keep the aluminum block and have a little higher CR.
Thanks for letting me know though. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
XLR8NSS
Thanks for letting me know though. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
XLR8NSS
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I think at a minimum you are looking at around $500 for some 6.125 H-beam rods.
When you had your heads off could you still see the factory crosshatching on your cylinder walls?
When you had your heads off could you still see the factory crosshatching on your cylinder walls?
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I built a 375" CI Iron Block motor using a .060 over bore, custom n2o based forged pistons, and regular SBC 6" ibeam rods. You can put a setup like this together very cheaply and pick up 30-40rwhp, but you pay the price with 80#s of extra weight on the nose of the car. I'm not sure what the price of that weight is, but probably around .1th.
I've got the PA Kmember which will offset 25#, removed the bumper for another 20#, and I'll probably try the dyna-batt for another 15#.
I'm hoping to run as fast as the ARE 417CI stroker motors with the new setup. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
I've got the PA Kmember which will offset 25#, removed the bumper for another 20#, and I'll probably try the dyna-batt for another 15#.
I'm hoping to run as fast as the ARE 417CI stroker motors with the new setup. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
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[quote]Originally posted by XLR8NSS:
<strong>How much are the Lunati Pro-mod rods and where can I get them?
</strong><hr></blockquote>
I can get them for you, but you're looking at about $650
<strong>How much are the Lunati Pro-mod rods and where can I get them?
</strong><hr></blockquote>
I can get them for you, but you're looking at about $650
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[quote]Originally posted by Terry Burger:
<strong>I'm hoping to run as fast as the ARE 417CI stroker motors with the new setup. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
only if you use Mike Morgans correction factors <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
<strong>I'm hoping to run as fast as the ARE 417CI stroker motors with the new setup. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
only if you use Mike Morgans correction factors <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">