Help me build a budget engine :)
My thoughts:
JE pistons (or equivalent) with lower ringlands...stock compression,
Lunati ProMOD 6.125 rods
stock crank
new bearings and rings.
What all machining would be "essential"???
Any flaw with my parts selection? I'm thinking about stepping up the nitrous shot a bit <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
J.
Jason
I'm going to limit myself to a 200-250 shot anyways <img src="images/icons/tongue.gif" border="0">
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I was planning on using Scat 6.125" h-beam rods. I can get them from Sallee(sp?) chevrolet for ~$480. How much are the Lunati Pro-mod rods and where can I get them?
Thanks. This board has all the good topics. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
XLR8NSS
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
[ November 13, 2001: Message edited by: XLR8NSS ]</p>
Stock '98 LS1 block honed .005
Wiseco forged blower/N20 pistons (1.330 comp. height)
Moly file-fit rings
Stock crank
Stock rods/rod bolts
Balanced rotating assembly
New GM bearings throughout
I did the final assembly myself, which saved some $$$. If I was doing it again, I'd go with a different piston, since the forged slugs are a little heavy, and the relocated top ring causes a small loss in compression (and I don't use N2O anymore). I'd go with the ARP rod bolts, since they seem like good inexpensive insurance. My ring gaps are also pretty excessive, since I originally set the engine up for ~200hp worth of juice...
I'm not touching/changing anything in the bottom end until catastrophic failure dictates the need to do so. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
<strong>I'm planning on building a motor for my blower this winter and am very interested in the "budget" aspect.
I was planning on using Scat 6.125" h-beam rods. I can get them from Sallee(sp?) chevrolet for ~$480. How much are the Lunati Pro-mod rods and where can I get them?
Thanks. This board has all the good topics. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
XLR8NSS</strong><hr></blockquote>
Eric Connelle (noone) is selling his ARE low comp TT engine. Just a heads up <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
<strong>
Eric Connelle (noone) is selling his ARE low comp TT engine. Just a heads up <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
I need specifics man. You just can't post something like that without specifics. <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0">
I checked the classifieds and didn't see anything. I'm going to check "the other board" now. Let me know where I can find something about his motor please.
Thanks for the heads up.
XLR8NSS
Thanks for letting me know though. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
XLR8NSS
When you had your heads off could you still see the factory crosshatching on your cylinder walls?
I've got the PA Kmember which will offset 25#, removed the bumper for another 20#, and I'll probably try the dyna-batt for another 15#.
I'm hoping to run as fast as the ARE 417CI stroker motors with the new setup. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
<strong>How much are the Lunati Pro-mod rods and where can I get them?
</strong><hr></blockquote>
I can get them for you, but you're looking at about $650
<strong>I'm hoping to run as fast as the ARE 417CI stroker motors with the new setup. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
only if you use Mike Morgans correction factors <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">



