This cam is fairly cheap, install wouldn't be a problem, and I will do custom tuning with it or any other cam for that matter. I love the lope of it and it seems to put out decent mid to top range power. My car is a daily-driver and I'm looking to run 12.5's with some other bolt-on's but want good reliability. Would proper custom tuning make this possible or should I look at another cam such as the TR 224(114LSA) or the Comp 212/218 114LSA(torque monster)? Some day I will eventually go with a bigger cam, S2 heads, and a 4000+ stall for mostly track(drag) racing, but not for another 2-3 years. Right now I have a goal of running mid 12's N/A with the stock converter and stock gears(3.23) until I upgrade later on down the line. What do you all think?

Thank You,

Mike <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" />

 

Have you read my cam page? It might help you make an informed decision.

http://xs-fx.com/raughammer/cam_info.htm

If you gave me more of an idea of your goals... i could help you make an informed decision.

Personally? I do not like the Hot cam. I think there are better cams out there. (Just a personal opinion, no hate mail please)

 

[quote]Originally posted by Raughammer:
<strong>Have you read my cam page? It might help you make an informed decision.

http://xs-fx.com/raughammer/cam_info.htm

If you gave me more of an idea of your goals... i could help you make an informed decision.

Personally? I do not like the Hot cam. I think there are better cams out there. (Just a personal opinion, no hate mail please)</strong><hr></blockquote>

John,

No, I have not looked at your cam info page yet but I definitely will. As for my goals, they are listed at the bottom of my first paragraph at the top of this post. I would like to run mid 12's N/A with the stock converter, stock gears(3.23) and stock heads as my car is a daily-driver and I want to keep it that way until I upgrade to the big stuff a few years from now. Basically, my set-up will consist of a cam, LS6 intake, lid, FTRA, LT headers, cat-back exhaust, ASP pulley, & Nitto DR's. If not the hotcam(w/tuning) then what do you now recommend?

Thank You,

Mike

 

Hotcam sucks....
There are dozens of better cams out there for drivability and MORE power with STOCK tuning.
Just my opinion of course <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

Look at getting a single pattern 221 to 224 duration cam with 55x lift and 114LSA. It will idle great, pass emissions and give great power both on stock and ported heads. For a slightly lower power peak but worse idle and marginal emissions a 221 to 224 cam with 55x lift and 112LSA will work too. The cams I listed above are all great choices but depend on if you are A4 and have emissions concerns. People have passed with the 112LSA but the 114LSA almost guarantees it <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> Also A4's will idle better with the 114LSA cams.
Cheers,
Chris

[ January 10, 2002: Message edited by: Chris ARE 360 ]</p>

 

Personally, I think its a M6 cam only. 112 ls, 227 exhaust duration... those numbers arent "conservative".

The cam *can* make good HP. I proved that. But I dont think it was *ever* designed with drivability in mind. Just great out of the box torque and HP with stock heads. I think that if you are into drivability, a smaller lope, drive an A4, need emmissions cert., or you plan on doing headwork... the LS1 Hotcam *probably* isnt for you.

There are many other cams that *do* work very well accross the board, but they generally are slightly more expensive, true.
Cams, springs, etc, are *always* coming available in the classified, and in a quest to be the first doing a few things, Ive really missed out on some good deals in the classifieds. You *really* ahve to know what you are looking for and the seller pretty well though to keep from getting into a mess.
But back to the original question: Is the Hotcam for you? No.
Look at the B1, or Thunder Racing's 224 cam on a 114. That would be my recommendation...

chris

 

John,

I just looked at your page and came across a guy who put the Hotcam in his A4 with the stock converter and 3.23 gears. The information from him was pretty positive since it is almost exactly what I was thinking of doing. No problems that I could see of.

Also, the Comp 212/218 w/114LSA looks nice for my application too.

Right now, I'm looking for a solid cam with a detectable lope to work well enough with my stock converter until I get myself a 4000+ stall when I make this car a drag car a few years down the road. A nice well blended increase throughtout the powerband would be desirable for my car.

I hope you understand what I'm looking for right now. Remember, I will get custom tuning with the cam no matter which one I get.

Thanks again,

Mike

 

Chris & Chris,

Thanks for the info. I agree that the 114 LSA is primarily the way to go in an A4 but I have seen some success for the 112LSA Hotcam in A4's too. Not many, but some. However, I also agree that this cam would probably have trouble written all over it even though it is cheap and makes the kind of power I want for my car.

Besides trying to help me find the best cam for my goal of my A4 car, can anybody answer my original question(topic of this post)? I'd still like to know either way.

Mike

 

[quote]Originally posted by Chris ARE 360:
[QB]Hotcam sucks....
There are dozens of better cams out there for drivability and MORE power with STOCK tuning.
Just my opinion of course <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">
QB]<hr></blockquote>

I guess I'd challenge that....

Stock heads, only 2 cars have made more power than mine. And I never veered from stock tuning. (other than a MAF Translator). I think the hotcam had a good bit of intelligence behind it, and it all related to stock head flow patterns. THe hotcam is a very "dual pattern cam", with 217/227, they had to think the exhaust needed some help. Wiht ported heads, thats probably not true. But the Hotcam didnt suck for specific applications. In some applications, ALL cams suck. But there are a few for the Hotcam where only two other cars made bigger HP.

And interestingly enough, when I ran the 396rwhp #, it was through the full exhaust, no cutout, nothing. Alot of folks dont realize that ppl like jmX, myself and others, dont dyno without the exhaust, because we always drive the car with the full exhaust. *ALOT* of the other big #s are through cutouts or after they drop the exhaust. ANd its been shown that in these cars, thats worth ALOT of HP. Imagine what my piddly little "sucks" hotcam stock head car would have dome if I dropped the exhaust... 405+rwhp?

chris
Defender of the Hot <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

 

[quote]Originally posted by 2000LS1Z28:
<strong>Chris & Chris,

Thanks for the info. I agree that the 114 LSA is primarily the way to go in an A4 but I have seen some success for the 112LSA Hotcam in A4's too. Not many, but some. However, I also agree that this cam would probably have trouble written all over it even though it is cheap and makes the kind of power I want for my car.

Besides trying to help me find the best cam for my goal of my A4 car, can anybody answer my original question(topic of this post)? I'd still like to know either way.

Mike</strong><hr></blockquote>

No, it is not guarenteed to work. I understand, perhaps wrongly, that you have a stock stall.
I dont think this would be worth the savings over a B1 or TR 224 on a 114.

theres your answer <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

chris

 

Mike, the 212/218//114 cam won’t have a noticeable lope from what everyone says that has it who’s posted about it on here. It also won’t make big power, and I know your goal is only 12.50, but you said that eventually you want to get heads, etc., so why not get one cam now that will perform great for your current goals, and still work just as well with stage 2 heads later? Not to say that the 212/218 won’t make power with ported heads, but there are much better choices, IMO. A 212/218 will be leaving a lot on the table when you get heads.

Get the B1. Get Comp 26918 springs and MTIs 7.4” (stock length) hardened pushrods. If you want to spend a little more cash you could get the Comp 772 Ti retainers too, but you don’t really need them unless you’re going to rev real high (6500+).

The B1 will also work great with ported stage 2 heads later down the line when you deiced to do them. After seeing the dyno graphs that some members have posted of bolt-on B1 cars, I’ve been very impressed. I saw a graph earlier this week from a member that gained 37rwhp with a B1 on stock heads.

And about the 114 vs 112 stuff, Nine Ball posted a comparison graph of three cars (two with B1s and one with a T1) that all had the exact same other mods done to the cars on the same days and at the same dyno on the same day. The only difference was T1 vs B1, and the only difference that the dyno showed was a slight increase in midrange torque on the T1, but not major. The B1 stayed right with the T1 HP wise, and at peak the power and torque were basically exactly the same.

Good luck on your choice <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

Ryan,

Didn't you have MTI do custom tuning with your PCM for your B1? I could be mistaken but I thought you posted something about that a couple of weeks ago. I actually know a lot about the B1 and it would be a great cam for the full works(S2 heads, big stall,ET streets) someday, but how would it work with the stock converter for a couple of years? After my Vig 2800 fiasco, I don't want to put another small to medium size converter in the car if I'm going to upgrade it to a much larger stall shortly after. I only have so much money to work with and I really want the cam next. I guess I'm going to really have to pay good attention to your car real well so I have a nice pattern to kind of follow. When's all of that stuff going in and who is doing your install?

See you later,

Mike

 

The B1 will work great on stock tuning. I think if you are going to get a converter go with the Yank TP4200. That with the B1 cam would be perfectly matched and pick up a lot when you do heads later. Do everything once and do it right <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
I am also impressed by the TR224 cam on 114LSA as well.
Cheers,
Chris

 

[quote]Originally posted by 2000LS1Z28:
<strong>Ryan,

Didn't you have MTI do custom tuning with your PCM for your B1? I could be mistaken but I thought you posted something about that a couple of weeks ago. I actually know a lot about the B1 and it would be a great cam for the full works(S2 heads, big stall,ET streets) someday, but how would it work with the stock converter for a couple of years? After my Vig 2800 fiasco, I don't want to put another small to medium size converter in the car if I'm going to upgrade it to a much larger stall shortly after. I only have so much money to work with and I really want the cam next. I guess I'm going to really have to pay good attention to your car real well so I have a nice pattern to kind of follow. When's all of that stuff going in and who is doing your install?

See you later,

Mike</strong><hr></blockquote>

Yes, I had MTI do the tuning. I needed tuning regardless because I had one of the few ’00 year cars that was having TM issues. They raised my idle to 850 in drive and 950 in park, plus a bunch of other things including B1 specific power tuning. I wanted MTI to do that tuning since it was their cam I figured who better to tune it? <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

It’ll work just fine with the stock stall, but I would like to see you get something like a ST3500 for this setup. That ‘verter will be just fine for a daily driver and still give you great ETs and terrific from-a-roll pulling power. If you want an easier time getting traction on the street, you could get the same ‘verter I have (SY3500). Anything in the TP series won’t do you any good on any type of street tires on the street. That would be great at the track, but if your car is going to be driven a lot on the street (even once it’s not a daily driver) I’d stick to the ST3500 (for more track time)/SY3500 (for more street time) type range.

As soon as the roads are clear of salt (March or at the latest April) everything is getting done. Tom Izzo (Speed Inc.) is doing the cam install. He’s out by you in Schaumburg, and he’s the best when it comes to LS1 in this area.

 

to answer your original Question, no, the hotcam or any other cam for that matter is not guaranteed to do/ or perform a certian way, while there are cams and other products that make good to mild increase it all comes down to your combo and plans, besides your an A4 (right) with a good cam stock heads and heders most bolt-ons you can run faster than 12s ( ive done it). just 100% IMO hope i helped <img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" />

 

the hotcam is a good cam, but to you can't guarantee anything with any cam. i've been very pleased with mine even without PCM tuning, it's made very good power all through the rpm range.

 

2000LS1Z28,

12.50's are totally reachable with that Comp Cam 212/218!!!! Just check the sig <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> Hek that was on a 1.76 sixty foot. I know that 1.63 sixty foot run was my ticke to 11's but that was an 1/8 mile track.

Will that cam lope like the cams in the 22X/22X range? nope. When i had my dual dual slp setup on it, you coudln't even tell the cam was in. The cams a GREAt cam for 'daily driving'. If your going to drag race it a lot, i suggest maybe stepping up a lil bit.
<img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />