moisture in oil.. Why?
moisture in oil.. Why? when I did my cam swap a while back some coolant ran in to the oil pan. I didn't know that it did but when I first started it the coolant got mixed up with the oil. So anyway i changed the oil and filter. Well I checked the oil today and noticed it look like it has streakes of oil on the dipstick. Would it be because it just hasn't ran enough to burn the rest of the milky **** out? It's been very cold here also and I have a 160 stat so I don't think it has gotten warmed up like it should. I checked the coolant and it was fine. Do ya think it's just because of when I started it when it had the coolant in the oil?
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 205
Likes: 1
From: Atlanta area, GA
160 degree t-stat is simply too cold. You need to run the oil up to 212 degrees (or very, very close) to burn off the water vapor floating around from combustion processes and the temp change from cold to warm-up. It is possible to run an LS1 too cold.
An 180~185 degree t-stat is about right (you can’t buy one, but you can make one from your stock t-stat for “free”, like I did); with the associated fan reprogramming you can have an optimum setup. Running the car with a 160 degree stat in cold weather can cause piston / cylinder wall scrubbing, excessive wear amongst other things. You'll also notice the oil life monitor will reduce the indicated oil life significantly, because the engineers know how detrimental super-low oil temps are. It's like you are constantly taking short trips.
An 180~185 degree t-stat is about right (you can’t buy one, but you can make one from your stock t-stat for “free”, like I did); with the associated fan reprogramming you can have an optimum setup. Running the car with a 160 degree stat in cold weather can cause piston / cylinder wall scrubbing, excessive wear amongst other things. You'll also notice the oil life monitor will reduce the indicated oil life significantly, because the engineers know how detrimental super-low oil temps are. It's like you are constantly taking short trips.
Originally Posted by Dan_the_C5_Man
160 degree t-stat is simply too cold. You need to run the oil up to 212 degrees (or very, very close) to burn off the water vapor floating around from combustion processes and the temp change from cold to warm-up. It is possible to run an LS1 too cold.
An 180~185 degree t-stat is about right (you can’t buy one, but you can make one from your stock t-stat for “free”, like I did); with the associated fan reprogramming you can have an optimum setup. Running the car with a 160 degree stat in cold weather can cause piston / cylinder wall scrubbing, excessive wear amongst other things. You'll also notice the oil life monitor will reduce the indicated oil life significantly, because the engineers know how detrimental super-low oil temps are. It's like you are constantly taking short trips.
An 180~185 degree t-stat is about right (you can’t buy one, but you can make one from your stock t-stat for “free”, like I did); with the associated fan reprogramming you can have an optimum setup. Running the car with a 160 degree stat in cold weather can cause piston / cylinder wall scrubbing, excessive wear amongst other things. You'll also notice the oil life monitor will reduce the indicated oil life significantly, because the engineers know how detrimental super-low oil temps are. It's like you are constantly taking short trips.
change oil/filter again, and run the motor long enough to get it up to temp, before you move it around. if it's cold, and damp where you live there will be alot of mositure in the heads/combustion chamber/oil pan, and it will need time to heat up and evaporate it all.
Originally Posted by Dan_the_C5_Man
160 degree t-stat is simply too cold. You need to run the oil up to 212 degrees (or very, very close) to burn off the water vapor floating around from combustion processes and the temp change from cold to warm-up. It is possible to run an LS1 too cold.
An 180~185 degree t-stat is about right (you can’t buy one, but you can make one from your stock t-stat for “free”, like I did); with the associated fan reprogramming you can have an optimum setup. Running the car with a 160 degree stat in cold weather can cause piston / cylinder wall scrubbing, excessive wear amongst other things. You'll also notice the oil life monitor will reduce the indicated oil life significantly, because the engineers know how detrimental super-low oil temps are. It's like you are constantly taking short trips.
An 180~185 degree t-stat is about right (you can’t buy one, but you can make one from your stock t-stat for “free”, like I did); with the associated fan reprogramming you can have an optimum setup. Running the car with a 160 degree stat in cold weather can cause piston / cylinder wall scrubbing, excessive wear amongst other things. You'll also notice the oil life monitor will reduce the indicated oil life significantly, because the engineers know how detrimental super-low oil temps are. It's like you are constantly taking short trips.
FYI. You can buy a 180* stat. Hypertech or Duralast....maybe others out there too.
