slp headers/orange heatshield hose against header
It's safe to say that miniscule amount of added resisance will hurt far less than shorted (burnt thru) or corroded (high ohms) wire.
And use exactly the same size wire. That way it fits in the same size split loom and looks factory. I beleive most wiring is #16AWg or #14AWG. Don't remember.
When you check go by the copper inside and not the size of the insulation around it. <img src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" border="0" alt="[guns]" /> <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" /> <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> <img src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" border="0" alt="[devil]" /> <img src="graemlins/camaro.gif" border="0" alt="[Chevrolet]" />
That wheelying Z should be orange BTW. <img src="gr_eek2.gif" border="0">
[ January 21, 2002: Message edited by: Rock ]</p>
how many have lengthened the wires? <img src="graemlins/formula.gif" border="0" alt="[Pontiac]" />
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and put the orange around that. I have not
had any problems but my car rarely sees water
except for wash. I do suggest to any new installs
to double the orange by cutting a unused portion
off near the pcm and installing it where the
wires touch the headers.. again 2000 miles
no problems at all.
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<strong>I read on here somewhere that adding to the wires will casue problems with the computer reading a different resistance???</strong><hr></blockquote>
this is incorrect/inaccurate hearsay - lengthening these perticular wires is perfectly acceptable.
<strong>how many have left the wires in the orange hose against the header?
how many have lengthened the wires? <img src="graemlins/formula.gif" border="0" alt="[Pontiac]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>
Occasional contact is inevitable, but make sure the wires are not pulled 'tight' against the tubes - this will not work; either because of engine torque or heat or a combo of both.
If you don't want to lengthen the wires, you can carefully 'fish' more wire length out of the main harness from the PCM forward.
<strong>how many have left the wires in the orange hose against the header?
how many have lengthened the wires? <img src="graemlins/formula.gif" border="0" alt="[Pontiac]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>
I have for more than a year now. At this time I have my motor apart and I'm wraping the wires with two layers of the orange stuff.
<strong>the supplied orange hose it against my header. there seems to be no other way around this other than making the wires longer which I am not trying.</strong><hr></blockquote>
When I did this install on a friend's car, I spent a good hour lengthening the wires from the PCM by tracing them back and taking up all available slack, then rerouting all of the wires through the original looms. The orange wrap still made contact with the header. The smell of oil and possibly the coating on the wrap went away after a day, and he's been driving for 2 months now without any problems. Just make sure the zip ties aren't touching the header and you shouldn't have any problems.
BTW, his car is a daily driver, sees rain and even some snow/salt/sand. No problems to speak of.
<strong>the y pipe banging was getting annoying so I installed a rubber block between the y pipe and floorpan, now the damn floorpan hums louder and louder as I get on it. GETTING OUT THE SLEDGE TOMORROW to slightly dent in the floor.</strong><hr></blockquote>
you shouldn't need to dent anything (unless you have angle milled heads or something).
2 things to try first:
1 - loosen all the header to head bolts; LS1 manifolds 'pivot' off the center bolt, so you can tilt the headers either up (not good), or down (correct). At the collector, this is worth as much as 1/2 inch drop
2 - loosen all the cat,ypipe, and intermediate pipe torca clamps. Hold the y-pipe down, you can hold it down with a prybar, wood, etc - while you hold it down, tighten all the clamps.
-brian
<strong>
you shouldn't need to dent anything (unless you have angle milled heads or something).
2 things to try first:
1 - loosen all the header to head bolts; LS1 manifolds 'pivot' off the center bolt, so you can tilt the headers either up (not good), or down (correct). At the collector, this is worth as much as 1/2 inch drop
2 - loosen all the cat,ypipe, and intermediate pipe torca clamps. Hold the y-pipe down, you can hold it down with a prybar, wood, etc - while you hold it down, tighten all the clamps.
-brian</strong><hr></blockquote>
Horsepower, I have a question for you. I’ve seen a couple of cases now where the banging is due to the Y-pipe hitting the inside of the driveshaft tunnel (where the floorboard curves up and becomes the DS tunnel) right where the I-pipe and Y-pipe slip together. Is this because of the header being bolted to the head wrong as you describe above? My fix has been to loosen the Y-pipe front and back and pry it away from the DS tunnel, but that fix apparently isn’t permanent anymore as one of them that I did started hitting again. What do you recommend for this? Please let me know. Thanks. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
I will try to loosen the drivers side header and tilt it down. I think I can get some that way maybe.





