First off when I got to the dyno he said he burnt up the Wideband before I got there and also couldn't measure torque. It make me wonder if these HP #'s are accurate?
1st- 365 HP cut-out capped
2nd- 365 HP cut-out open
3rd- 370 HP cut-out open/air filter removed

I'm a little disappointed. Should I get rid of these heads and go with ARE, MTI or Cartek?

Could the dyno be off because he fried the other components? <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0">

 

370 through an A4 isnt bad man <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
I think a more aggressive combo would give closer to 390ish but it is still good <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">
Screw the dyno anyways, take it to the track and see what it does <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> ATAP and make sure everything looks cool!
Chris

 

Maybe there are some tuning related issues? We need to know AF, timing, etc...

 

You mean he burnt up the tach lead (thing that clips on plug wire) - this would prevent you from getting a torque reading?

A wideband will just give you a/f, but won't have anything to do with getting or not getting a torque figure.

Was your converter locked or unlocked?


Chris

 

real quick im confused....arent head/cam supposed to make well over 400 rwhp.....unless im missing your year. Im at 330 with a lid and MAF.
Just what ive read... <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0">

 

Take into account the convertor you had too. Was it locked during the do? THose are pretty good numbers, but I would be guessing more like 385 for your combo. Be happy man!

 

I don't think the converter was locked up. I'm not sure how to do that.
I logged the first run with A-Tap and got RPM, O2's, timing and KR. Looks like it's running a little rich. I just got the PCM back from Ed last Friday. <img src="gr_emb.gif" border="0">
I'll have to type out some of the parameters cause I have yet been able to print any out.
Should I get an MAFT and Pace MAF? Pulleys?

Why does my car SUCK?
It feels fast!!!

 

Take into account the convertor you had too. Was it locked during the do? THose are pretty good numbers, but I would be guessing more like 385 for your combo. Be happy man!

 

I think thats pretty good for MMS heads, I've seen 350rwhp with mms and 370rwtq... <img src="gr_emb.gif" border="0">

 

You can loose up to 15 horsepower on the dyno with the convertor unlocked. Definately get the MAFT, but the Pace MAF is up to you. I had Ed program accounting for the maf, but he usually bases his programs in stock maf's.

 

Take the car to the track before you say it sucks. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0"> I have a similar setup and make over 400rwhp on the dyno (mid 118mph traps, stock weight). If you can run 116-118mph at the track, all is good.

You need all the little things too, like pulleys, ls6 intake, ported throttle body, offroad pipes, good air intake system, good maf, and so forth.

 

Terry = I have the LS6 intake, FTRA and have ORP's with the FLP's

RPM B1S1 B2S1 Timing KR
3791 .935 .990 25.5 2.2
4670 .965 .980 23 2.8
5370 .970 .985 27 1.8
6410 .985 .995 27 1.8

Are these numbers off or what?
Should I get a MAFT?

Thanks for the responces. I'm still pretty happy, the car is running great.
The track here won't open back up till the middle of February. <img src="graemlins/gr_angel.gif" border="0" alt="[angel]" />

[ January 24, 2002: Message edited by: Palm Beach Z ]</p>

 

get an MAFT. tune it on the dyno and lock that converter. you wont be disappointed then. good numbers i think given the situation.

 

Palm Beach - before you buy anything else, I'd take it to a different dyno. I have seen HUGE differences between dynos. If the numbers are real similar on a different machine, then look at the tuning issues.

Any good dyno should be able to lock up your tc. Don't panic. You've got all the goods to go fast.

 

Where did you dyno? A couple of us are going to Reith Motorsports to dyno on Saturday.

 

That's the place. Steve seems to be a good guy. Only paid $40 for the 3 pulls cause he couldn't do wideband or torque. I'll try a different dyno just to be sure of the numbers.

 

Those ATAP #s suck. EW should get your A/F dialed in much better than that (without additional charge <img src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" border="0" alt="[judgement]" /> ). A Wide band would have better to confirm the ATAP #s.

You have at least 10 hp in tuning issues. Call EW and get your money's worth.

I wouldn't ditch the heads until:
1) fixing your A/F
2) going to the ttrack with some other LS1's and comparing times & mph
3) talking with Mike Morgan

 

I've already e-mailed Mike Morgan with the a-tap and dyno #'s. Asking him what I'm doing wrong.

I'm hesitant to e-mail Ed cause when he retuned the PCM this time for the heads, he made an honest mistake and put M6 programming in instead of for my A4. Then when he sent a new PCM to replace that one the idle was way high andf again I had to send it back. So, it took 3 times for him to get it back to me. I don't think he'll want to mess with it again. <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0">

 

Hence the nickname, Ed WRONG <img src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" border="0" alt="[jester]" />
When he gets it right, he's very good; but this happens sometimes when dealing with him.

Borrow a MAFT next time. Try leaning out a bit on the dyno. If it works, buy a MAFT.

How are the LRTIMS? Rich also (i.e. negative numbers)?

 

Ragtop, I'll check the Ltrims Saturday. Thanks for the help. <img src="gr_emb.gif" border="0">