Ok, here's the deal. I was in on the ARE GP on Grot 1 7/8's. I'm going to be installing them the weekend of 2/8-2/10. Here's the list of parts I have collected:

1.) Stage 8 header bolts
2.) GM AIR & header gaskets
3.) O2 sims

I'm going to do the AIR "restrictor plate" mod to prevent the check valves from fluttering/making excess noise and/or burning up prematurely.

I'm wondering about the collectors on the Grots. Is the fit from the headers to the y-pipe a ball-joint type of compression fitting? If it is... no collector gaskets would be needed... but what about collector bolts? Will I need them too? The headers won't arrive till next week so I can't check them out for myself yet.

Lastly... I need to know how to jack this thing up. How high does it need to be? I'm thinking it needs to be as high as the headers are tall. Am I right? I have access to a 3.5-ton jack that'll get it up there... but I don't know if it will get quite that high without shimming it with a piece of wood or two. And where on the car can I jack it up? I have an M6... can I use the tranny support as the jack point? And how the heck am I going to stabilize the car up that high? I'm thinking about renting some tall jack stands (if I can find them) and raiding the neighborhood next door where they're building some new houses for some cinder blocks and wood as insurance that the car *won't* be coming down on me. That's all I can think of for now... if I've forgotten anything, *please* chime in and let me know. Any other advice or insights are greatly appreciated.

I installed a cam by myself... I'm hoping headers will be cake compared to that. Thanks in advance guys...

 

Wow, you got the 1 7/8" headers? This diameter header is typically recommended for larger displacements.

I ordered and received my parts directly through Grotyohann himself. So minor accessories may be different. This is what I received:

- 1 pair coated 1.75" headers w/ ball flanges, EGR & AIR bungs
- 1 3" y-pipe with ball flange & Carsound cats
- O2 extensions (3 or 4 I think)

I didn't receive the bolts necessary to mate the collectors to the y-pipe. I don't recall the exact size of the suggested bolts, sorry. If I had to guess, I'd say 5/8x4".

You'll need all of 36" of vertical clearance to get the driver side header in. However you do it, it can't be any worse than what Tim & Richie had to do to raise my car that high. They had a thick phone book and a couple of gym weights on top of a hydraulic jack to get the last couple of inches needed. If memory serves the rear tires were still on the ground during the whole process.

Ideally, beg/borrow/steal/buy four jackstands which with 36+" of travel, in conjunction with a matching hydraulic jack. We used the standard jacking points that you use to change tires, etc. Raise the rear at the differential if you need clearance to get the hydraulic on the front jack points.

They've done quite a few header installs in the Orlando area, and at least 3 Grot installs. If you can contact them, I'm sure they'll be able to give you details. Their install time for the Grot's drastically reduced on subsequent installs.

I'd not undertake it by myself, simply due to how high you need to raise the front end, and an exrta pair of hands to hold things in place is good too <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

 

here is some things that I did with
SLP headers.. you may or may not need it.
Your going in from the bottom.
I would take out the coil packs so you can see.
I dropped out the starter and the oil filter.

here is the link.
http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=149

 

Oh yeah, a band-clamp for the cat-back if you don't already have one, and possibly a torch in case you need to heat the y-pipe to make it mate with the collectors. Else, leave the y-pipe off and rig a hanger for the cat-back, until you have access to a torch or take it to a shop.

Open Headers, baby! <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />